macos – How to delete a file from Time Machine backups in Big Sur?

I can’t seem to take a screenshot of Time Machine, but I’ll describe it. I go to the Time Machine menu and select “Enter Time Machine”. Then I see the view with the stack of windows. I browse to a file and select it. Now I want to delete it so it doesn’t exist and take up space in backups. There is no option to delete it – either the action menu in the toolbar, or the control-click context menu.

How do I delete a file from Time Machine backups? There used to be a way to do this.