Strictly speaking, we do not need High SPF burst modes for sport or wildlife, but they are rather useful tools this opens more options.
I've been doing sports in recent years with a Canon 7D, usually using 5-8 frames (at 8 fps) at a time, and a medium-format manual focus camera.
Both methods have produced beautiful images, but with a burst of photos, I leave with a number of images to choose from, which best represent the moment. (ie choose between two almost identical photos, one where a player is flashing halfway or another where it is not …)
When I only have one frame to choose, that's all. That's the only frame, and it worked well, or it was thrown in the trash because there was no other option to choose from.
Burst mode, with a large buffer, can also help to adjust some minor motion blur – It is not uncommon for the first or first two bursts to have a blur more clue than the rest when you press the trigger (and the camera starts moving in a SLR), but the following images are swayed.
For me, I find it particularly useful during panoramic. Start tracking the target, anticipate the action you want to capture, go ahead, trigger a burst and follow your goal picture.
When photographing sports and wildlife, you do not really have the luxury of stopping and saying "Let's try it again" if you do not feel like the image you were looking for.
The options are then good.
You can still take a single image on a modern camera up to 10 fps. It is "pretty difficult" to take 10 frames per second if you have a camera that is less than 1.
(Also note that the size of the buffer and the time required are important: A camera that can support 10 frames per second will not be very useful if you often find yourself typing the shutter and hearing it ring for you. to warn you that she is cleaning her stamp and can not take a picture at this time.)