mysql 5.7 – Performance issues from RDS Aurora 5.6 to Aurora 5.7

Recently upgraded one of my RDS instances to aurora mysql 5.7 from 5.6 and I’ve had to triple the instance class while I try to resolve this (cpu eventually pegs and never declines).

Most reads are slow now (some about 30% slower, others are up to 400% slower). Looking at explain output, the queries are still using proper indexes. innodb_buffer_pool_size us set to default RDS value (instance class*3/24 I think) and most other innodb_* settings are not modifiable.

Here’s an example Mysql5.6:

| count(*) |
| 20646739 |
1 row in set (0.06 sec)


mysql> select count(*) from nope;                                                                                                                                                                    +----------+
| count(*) |
| 20646739 |
1 row in set (3.77 sec)

Anyone else encounter this that can provide some insight into some setting I can tweak?

Which can handle more queries / users — Aurora serverless vs. Aurora provisioned?

Which can handle more queries and ultimately more concurrent users on my website?

  • Aurora serverless v1
  • Aurora provisioned, without read replication
  • Aurora provisioned, with read replication

Some anecdotal ballpark numbers of users using realtime messaging apps would be helpful.

aws aurora – how to enable CDC in google cloud sql server for AWS DMS replication?

I am trying to migrate data from GCP cloud sql server to AWS aurora MySQL using DMS CDC, for this I need to enable CDC on DMS source database which cloud SQL. As per the AWS documentation I need to enable CDC by executing “sp_cdc_enable_db” SP and for this I need sysadmin access but google cloud don’t support sysadmin access. So, in this scenario how to enable CDC?

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AWS Aurora Mysql different instance types for writer/reader

I have a db.r5.large for the master/writer.

I want to add some readers.

Do they need to be the same instance type as the master? Or can i add for example 3x db.t3.medium ?

equipment recommendation – What tips and advice do you have for photographing the Aurora Borealis?

Things that’s catch you out, from recent experience and echoing some of the above.
As all the photographic setting’s side has been pretty much covered… This is primarily assuming your going to be shooting somewhere quite cold and a remote dark location.

Take a second camera! Beg, Borrow, Hire a second camera, if anything like me you travel thousands of miles to Norway specifically to photograph the Aurora and your camera dies you’ll be devastated! Don’t think “It’ll never happen to me” I had two cameras with me on the shoot. A great show of the lights in Alta, Norway about 3/4 of the way through the shoot the D700 (which has a very low shutter count) died with “Error” possibly due to cold. Thank goodness I’d packed the D300 too!
Take a lot of batteries they die considerably quicker in the cold. Keep them in a pocket next to your skin, so your body warmth keeps their temperature up. Buy more than you have already, you will kick yourself if your batteries die before the Aurora does.

Working at night! Take a headlamp and modify if required with a red lens (this can be done with repair tape for car tail lamps) Make sure its simple to operate (Big On / Off buttons etc.). Why red light? Well red light helps your eyes recover quicker than from a show of white light. Also take a torch (with coloured lenses if you have them) and lots of spare batteries for torch and headlamp. Remember to turn the lamp off when you’re shooting. You can also use a torch for light painting the foreground if required. Take a couple of chemical glow/light sticks in case of emergency, if your torches are flat by the time you come to pack up and walk back, you’ll be stuck without a light source.

Take a 3ft or so, square of brightly coloured Rip Stop nylon (or similar), when you get to your location put it on the ground (Snow) to put your camera bag & kit on. This keeps your bag drier and gives you somewhere to place items when you take them out of your bag less chance of loosing something.

Working with your kit on, go out at night and practice photography at night up front, especially if you have never shot at night before. At night everything is different, Looks different and operating a camera wearing 6 or 7 layers is very different. Know your camera inside out and where all the controls are… Set up the camera to the basic night photography (Aurora) settings before you set out.

As per other answers, get really good boots and thermal socks, and don’t just believe some salesman that says their good! Remember you are likely to be stood in the snow probably for hours. If your anything like me you wont want to leave your cameras and go and warm up somewhere, so your effectively rooted to the spot. Test your boots and socks BEFORE your trip. The cold will kill your trip stone dead if your freezing and cant stand the cold any more, and that would be a disaster if the Aurora was still in full flow. Many Togs around me packed up because they couldn’t hack the freezing -21 temperature.

Get some GOOD gloves, flip top mitts that leave the top of your fingers free to operate the camera, I used Lowe Alpine Turbine Convertible Mitt with pure silk ultra thin liners underneath, with the option of snow mitts to cover the lot if it got serious cold.

Take some hand warmers not only can you use these to keep your hands warm, they can also be used to stick in your socks, or keep your batteries warm, and stop your camera freezing up.
Get a spare fleece snood! Once your camera is set up you can put the snood over the camera and still be able to access the controls. This will help to stop it freezing and if you slip a hand warmer inside this will help too.

Don’t forget to take some food and drink! Chocolate, energy foods, and if you have the option hot soup and or drink in a thermos flask or take a camp stove.

Check your tripod. If its not got an insulated leg or legs then wrap at least one of the legs with foam particularly if its Aluminium. Use pipe insulation wrapped over with something like a tennis racket handle grip tape or similar. On my second camera the Ali tripod leg froze to my hand when packing up! You might want to make sure you have spikes on your tripod feet for better stabilisation in the Snow.

Take your UV or lens protection filter off for the duration of the shoot, this stops condensation getting trapped between the front element of the lens and the filter. Don’t try and take this off halfway through the shoot it will be difficult and might have frozen to the lens threads. Use your Lens hood for additional protection and help stop the front element frosting.

Be careful with remote releases (Also remember spare batteries for this). Remember in extreme temperatures the cables can become brittle and break at the plug. If your planning a extremely cold trip perhaps insulate the cables. In fact anything plastic could be subject to becoming brittle that includes Camera socket covers, plastic parts on a tripod etc.

Regarding your proposed location… If its possible to recce your shooting location in daylight its a real help, things look very different at night and if you are out in a remote dark location setting up some landmarks or placing some markers can really help you when you return in the dark. This also gives you the opportunity to get an idea of composition for the shoot. Its also sensible from a safety point of view, a recce could prevent you setting up on a crust of thin ice over 2ft of snow. You usually only find this out when you stab the feet of the tripod into the ground and you drop 2ft into the snow!

After your shoot, introduce your camera back into warmer temperatures gradually, don’t just wack it straight into a hot room. Leave it in a cool lobby in the camera bag so that it gradually reaches room temperature, perhaps moving the bag gradually into a warmer place. If the camera was subject to frosting up (Mine were white!!) I wipe them down with a microfiber cloth then I put them in a sealed bag containing a large bag of silica gel to take some of the moisture away.

Hope you find this useful
Regards Steve

AWS RDS Unable to create Aurora postgres 10.12 instance

I’m trying to launch a r5 4XL instance running Aurora (10.12 postgres compatible.) but this version is not avaiable to select. 10.11 is the latest 10.x version that I see.

According to this doc 10.12 should be availabe.

AWS RDS Unable to create Aurora postgres10.12 instance

I’m trying to launch a r5 4XL instance running Aurora (10.12 postgres compatible.) but this version is not avaiable to select. 10.11 is the latest 10.x version that I see.

According to this doc 10.12 should be availabe.

aws aurora – How to update target table from sub query in MySQL table

I have written below query to update sequence of order after deletion of any one of intermediate records in the table in MYSQL.

Before Deletion:

NoteId  --------   NoteOrder
   1       |          1
   2       |          3
   3       |          2

After deleting NoteId 2, I have to update NoteId 3 note order from 3 to 2.

NoteId  --------   NoteOrder
   1        |         1
   3        |         2


   IN (Select NOTEORDER From note Where NOTEORDER >
               (Select NOTEORDER From note Where NOTEID = 2))

I am getting below error while executing above query. How to resolve the issue?

Error Message:

Error Code: 1093. You can't specify target table 'note' for update in FROM clause 

amazon rds – Storing Analytic Data for Multi-Tenet SaaS with AWS Aurora

I have an app that a user can upload an excel sheet of analytics data to S3. I am wanting to trigger a Lambda function on upload to do some data processing and then write the analytics to a client’s organization’s database (I am using Aurora). Eventually we will be capturing live clickstream data but for now we are just using generated reports.

My question is is this best practice to just have all the analytics in a database with thousands and thousands of events in as many rows? I can see that your table supports a maximum of … a little over 4.29 billion rows. but does that mean I can just pile them into a giant table until then? If I am potentially getting 50k rows per month should I just not think worry about it until I see a performance hit (if I even ever see one)? Or am I, as a newbie, just worrying over nothing?

Ideally I don’t just want to make this thing work, I want to learn how to make something that lasts and scales. And reading the docs on Aurora it sounds like this shouldn’t be an issue but I don’t know if I am just not seeing something that will become an issue.

Thanks for any advice and feedback!

If I fire a laser weapon with the Aurora property, does the damage (or lack thereof) occur before or after the target’s invisibility is negated?

Laser weapons cannot do damage to invisible creatures (Core Rulebook, p. 184; emphasis mine):

Laser weapons emit highly focused beams of light that deal fire damage. These beams can pass through glass and other transparent physical barriers, dealing damage to such barriers as they pass through. Barriers of energy or magical force block lasers. Invisible creatures don’t take damage from lasers, as the beams pass through them harmlessly. Fog, smoke, and other clouds provide both cover and concealment from laser attacks. Lasers can penetrate darkness, but they don’t provide any illumination.

The Aurora property negates invisibility for 1 minute on a hit (Armory, p. 27):

When an aurora weapon strikes a target, the creature glows with a soft luminescence for 1 minute. This negates invisibility effects and makes it impossible for the target to gain concealment from or hide in areas of shadow or darkness.

At the moment I am assuming that (a) you can still make attacks against an invisible target with a laser and (b) it will still apply non-damage effects (correct me if these are incorrect). This would mean that a laser with aurora (such as via a Mechanic’s prototype weapon) would still negate invisibility for future shots.

If I fire a laser weapon with the Aurora property, does the (lack of) damage occur before the target’s invisibility is negated, or after?