unit – The camera is running without a camera reference

The camera is set to go behind the object called "cameras" and set its rotation x on that object, as well as to move forward and backward along the axis behind the object. For some reason, when it moves back, it also moves to the right and turns to the left.

    public Transform target;
public Vector3 offset;
public float sensitivity;
private float horizontal;
private float desiredYAngle;
public Vector3 zoom;
private Quaternion rotation;
// Start is called before the first frame update
void Start()
    offset = target.position - transform.position;
    zoom = new Vector3(0f, 0f, 0f);

// Update is called once per frame
void LateUpdate() {
    horizontal = Input.GetAxis("Mouse X") * sensitivity;
    zoom -= new Vector3(Input.GetAxis("Mouse Y") * sensitivity * 0.5f, 0f, 0f);
    if(zoom.x < 0){
        zoom = new Vector3(0, 0, 0);
    if(zoom.x > 20){
        zoom = new Vector3(20, 0, 0);
    target.Rotate(0, horizontal, 0);
    desiredYAngle = target.eulerAngles.y;
    rotation = Quaternion.Euler(0, desiredYAngle, 0);
    transform.position = target.position - (rotation * (offset + new Vector3(offset.x - zoom.x, 0f, 0f)));

What is important for a macro photography lens for a mirrorless camera?

I've watched photos taken with different lenses and 50mm 1.8f seem to give the kind of photo I want.

On a crop camera or a full-screen camera? The A6000 is a compact camera and the 50 mm format corresponds to 75-80 mm in full screen mode: in the case of Sony, it corresponds to 77 mm. 50 mm on the full frame is about 33 mm on the crop in the case of Sony.

So, if you've seen cropped photos in 50mm format, everything is fine: just buy the 50mm lens. But if you've seen full-size 50mm photos, you should consider a ~ 33mm lens for your camera.

For macro photography, too short lenses can mean that your working distance is so small that you could bother the object (if you photograph insects) or at least block the light.

Too long lenses may mean that the small aperture needed for useful depth of field requires a long exposure time, to the point of being able to shake the camera, which is magnified by a long lens. Here, image stabilization can help. However, not all image stabilizers stabilize the movement of the camera: they can only stabilize the rotation of the camera. Over long distances, moving the camera has no effect and only the rotation of the camera is important for the camera shake, but at short distance, both are important.

I would look at these features:

  • Maximum magnification – note that your camera has a 1.53x framing. So it does not matter much if you use the full-frame mode, because the sensor is already growing by 1.53x compared to a full frame sensor.
  • Focal distance
  • Working distance (depends on the focal length and magnification)
  • Good image stabilization (IBIS may also suffice) – try to know if it only stabilizes the rotation or movement of the camera.
  • Autofocus system quality, including a focus limiter if you feel the need (although a camera may have a setting allowing it to not search the camera for autofocus). goal without the target when he does not know in which direction to adjust the focus, which may be enough)
  • Utility as a versatile lens – the more a lens is used, the more likely you are when you need a macro lens
  • If the lens is very long and heavy, ride on a tripod
  • Size, weight, price, etc. – all the usual features that you are considering when buying a goal

Which camera without a Canon mirror would be suitable for product photography?

In our society, we have a special tool for making product photos. The tool consists of a lightbox and a turntable. Everything connects to a PC where special software controls the intensity of the light, turns on the turntable and removes the background. L & # 39; tool works best only with Canon cameras.

The main product that we take pictures are glasses and sunglasses.

So, having in mind both aspects, what model of Canon camera and what lens would fit our current situation?

P. S. We firmly believe that mirrorless cameras are the best option for us because we manufacture more than 10,000 imagers per month. Its life cycle should therefore be longer.

image quality – Can a 1 "(one inch) sensor camera be used for stock or commercial photography?

I often use a Nikon 1 V2 with a 1 "sensor for commercial work … mostly product-type photographs.The quality of the image depends much more on other factors … and its sufficiency really depends on the requirements.

I do not sell to stock exchanges, but Adobe Stock has a minimum requirement of 4MP for photos and 1920×1080 for video; which is more than enough for most web-based needs (the other agencies are similar). And as my Nikon1 can meet / exceed these requirements, the results of 1 "sensors should be acceptable.

But real needs are not always known … the agency does not know end-uses when it accepts subsections. And often, the customer does not know what he really needs and wants as much as he can get (as little as possible). It is not uncommon for a client / client to insist that they need much more than what they actually do, and trying to fix this is usually futile.

The purpose of all that is to say; yes, 1 "sensors can be perfectly acceptable, but you will have a wider market if you use something that produces higher specification files.I also use a D850 …

Define the target eye of the SteamVR camera before installing SteamVR in Unity

I'm writing a plugin that can be used in VR projects and not VR. I have a camera that is used to display a user interface containing game information on a secondary monitor. My problem is that when the end user adds my plug-in, then imports Steam vr, this user's UI's Eye Camera is set to "Both" by default.

I can not have SteamVR code in my plugin. But I can not adjust the property of the target eye of the camera without it. I simply wish it so that the camera does not change when a user imports SteamVR. I want it to always be returned to the main screen (target eye = none)

So just to clarify,

  1. I have my plugin written in a non-vr project with a standard Unity camera. There is no target eye adjustment for this standard camera.
  2. The user wants to use it in the VR project, imports the plugin into the SteamVR project
  3. The camera used for rendering the user interface is automatically converted (wrongly) into a SteamVR camera
  4. By default, target eye = both
  5. Need it be the target eye = no

At the present time, to prevent users from sending countless bug reports, I must provide warnings in 6 locations, asking them to dig into my built – in prefabs to manually adjust this setting. they use SteamVR. This is not easy for new users of Unity and I wish to facilitate their adoption as much as possible.

What is the best camera about 1000 € DSLR

I want a versatile camera with dlsr. I've found one on amazon and I would like to ask if it's a good camera, enter the description of the link here. and what is a good lens before this camera

image quality – 1 "(1 inch) sensor camera for commercial or commercial photography and videography

Is it possible to obtain commercially acceptable results using a 1 inch sensor camera (let me suggest here the Sony RX10M4 / Panasonic FZ1000M2)? By commercially acceptable results, I'm talking about the quality of the image for photos and videos and not the composition or any other obvious factor. Will it be accepted by actions (like Adobe) or is it rather amateur cameras for travel and family photos and videos?

I have seen quite controversial opinions here and there online, but none of them seems to me complete enough to answer the question.

Can not drag and drop the rcc camera from the top hierarchy of the project window

Hi, I was working on a project and when I tried to add the prefabricated rcc controller, it had given me the warning.
"Can not instantiate the prefab"

Apps – How can I remap the button on my camera to switch between two apps?

As a bike delivery man, I use the phone for navigation and so I often have to switch between the delivery application and Google Maps. I would like to configure the camera key of my Cubot Quest Lite to do just that.

The feature I want is exactly the one that happens by default when you double-click the Overview button. Typing twice is boring and hard to get every time. I'd like to move from this task to the mechanical camera button because I do not use the camera anyway. I've already tried several remapping applications, including Button Mapper and Button Remapper, but none of them could replace the camera's button function.

From what I've read, hanging up the phone should literally make everything possible, but I would rather not waste time with this stuff because I do not feel confident. Is there anything else I could try?

What would make a single photo of my phone's camera have large areas of magenta stained?

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What would cause the rose on this image? All before and after photos were normal. No filter, no flash.enter the description of the image hereenter the description of the image here