Does anyone have any experience with the Canon 10-18 used specifically for night landscapes or for doubling in Astro photography? I already understand it is a slow lens, and obviously not the first choice for these scenarios, I got it for photographing historical sites overseas (in the day) and thought to try some other scenarios with it.
I would be interested in using my Canon EOS M50 for astrophotography, however I would like to take longer exposures than the 30 second limit. Is there any way to increase this limit beyond 30 seconds to take better exposures?
I considered using Magic Lantern, however I don’t believe it is supported by the camera and also it was ambiguous as to whether or not that was a feature that magic lantern actually offered. Is there some sort of software that can accomplish this? I assume that this was a limit of the software rather than the hardware, but I’m not sure if I’m missing something.
I am photographer and videographer and my main subject is product photography (antiques, watches, jewelry,…) and one of my biggest issue is poor sharpness and bad looking video from my Canon 77D.
I was planning to upgrade to the Fujifilm XT4 wich offers native 10-bit 4k at an impressive bitrate of 400mbs. That would solve my issues, however I am considering the fact that I own may Canon’s glass (like the 2nd version of the 24-70 2.8L), since I want to upgrade for getting better video results, I am not sure if it worth considering the 5D mkIII with Magic Lantern, wich seems to allow 4k ROW at 14-bits. It is way cheaper for me and easier to get in short term.
I am truly confused guys with the “exact specs” ML allows in the 5D III, and if it worth considering it in 2020. So I highly appreciate your recommendations.
About the 5D mkIII specs I would appreciate if someone can tell me of there is a crop as you get in high resolution, if the footage is sharp, what is the maximum bitrate, what is the maximum frame rate, and what are the limitation of pushing the specs toward the limits…. what is the most best/usable/stable you can get form ML in the 5D mkIII?
Thank you in advance.
I have full aperture range on my Canon 5D3 in Av and tested with different lenses, but in Manual, the camera controls only vary between 3 f stops and not always the same stops.
Option, it seems to me are:
- an incorrect setting buried in a submenu.
- Firmware error.
- Hardware or other.
If 2. above, is that fixable with a firmware update/reinstall?
Any suggestions gratefully received.
If they worked just fine in your EOS 5D Mark II, you won’t likely brick anything using them in your EOS 5D Mark IV.
From a Canon Digital Learning Center article titled: How to protect yourself against counterfeit Canon batteries:
It’s important to understand that these warnings will still allow the user to proceed, after confirming via simple menu commands on the camera whether the battery has a Canon logo and, if so, whether the user accepts any potential risk in using a battery that the camera cannot confirm is a genuine Canon-brand battery. If you have purchased a non-Canon branded third party battery, you may get this warning screen upon every start up — but you’re free to use the battery, after telling the camera that you accept any possible risks.
The older batteries should still provide power to the camera, you just won’t get the full functionality you got when using them with the 5D Mark II. This would include ID and registration, advanced power information such as last date inserted, recharge performance, number of shots since last charge, etc. You may or may not get even the basic battery power level symbol on the top LCD screen of your 5D Mark IV. I’ve read one anecdotal account that said the battery symbol did not appear immediately after power up, but later did show during the same shooting session (without any power cycling of the camera).
The exact sequence and the results of each answer to the challenge question, as outlined in the same Canon article, goes like this:
Here’s what you’ll see on the newest cameras:
Actual Canon-brand battery:
No warning screen appears. Camera starts up normally and is ready to use.
Camera cannot confirm full communication with battery:
Warning screen appears. Here’s the sequence:
1) Within 5 seconds: “Battery Communication Error. Does this battery display the Canon logo?”
NO “Canon does not guarantee the performance or safety of this battery. Continue use?”
If you select YES and press the SET button, the camera turns on normally.
You’ve told the system this is a non-Canon branded battery and you accept any possible risk of a performance or safety issue.
If you select NO, you’ve told the camera not to continue use with this battery and the camera will shut off. You can restart it by turning the camera’s main switch back to ON or pressing the On-Off button again, if you change your mind.
YES “Battery may be counterfeit! Please call customer support. Shutting off for your safety.”
A battery with a Canon logo (not a third party accessory, as discussed above) is one of two things:
(1) a genuine Canon battery which cannot communicate with the camera possibly due to a defect or dirty battery contact or
(2) a counterfeit Canon-branded battery, made to look like a genuine
Canon battery but without the internal communication circuitry needed
to complete the start up process with the select Canon camera(s).
“OK” is your only option in this case; the camera will shut off to prevent potential damage to you and your property. You can turn it back on by repeating the start procedure.
This new protective sequence will happen each time you turn the camera on (recent Canon EOS, PowerShot, and VIXIA products), if full battery-to-camera communication cannot be confirmed upon start up.
What Canon seems to be doing with this challenge question that requires a user answer that acknowledges “Canon cannot guarantee the the performance or safety of this battery…” is to shift liability from Canon to the user if anything should go wrong. Although not spelled out anywhere that I can find, it would probably be safe to assume that the camera is storing the user’s response to proceed with a third party battery. If there are issues with the camera later that might be attributable to a faulty power supply Canon will likely attempt to decline warranty coverage. Laws vary widely from one locality to the next so the full implications of the user acknowledgement can not be covered in an answer of this scope here. The legal ramifications regarding warranty coverage should be similar in each locale to the older cameras such as the 7D Mark II and 5D Mark II that have a one step sequence: “Communication with Canon LP-E6 battery is irregular. Continue to use this battery?” The user chooses either Cancel, in which case the camera shuts down, or OK, in which case the camera continues the power on sequence.
I have read scattered anecdotal reports that the 5D Mark IV will refuse to power up with some, but not all, older third party batteries. It is unclear from those reports if the user answered Yes or No to the challenge question. I’ve also read reports that new copies of the LP-E6N from companies such as Watson, Wasabi, and SterlingTek work just fine in the 5D Mark IV without even being challenged with any dialog upon turning the camera on. Sometimes one firmware version may accept the same battery without the challenge question that another firmware revision will not.
If you are that worried about damaging your new camera, then use the older 3rd party batteries only in your older camera. If you’ve sold it, then offer the buyer a good deal on them. You can buy fresh 3rd party LP-E6N batteries that have been confirmed to work with the 5D Mark IV for as little as $15 each. That’s not much to pay for peace of mind regarding a $3,500 camera.
Canon periodically updates the battery protocol, apparently just to discourage use of third party batteries. Canon older batteries are not (supposed to be^) affected because the firmware in the older batteries already contain some “secret” lines of code that are only needed with the updated protocols. When the newer camera detects a battery without the hidden code it will give you the message to try and scare you into only buying Canon batteries. (^When Canon updated the LP-E6 battery to the LP-E6N and revised the LC-E6E charger they had an issue with many older OEM LP-E6 batteries not charging properly in the new charger.)
Since the third party battery manufacturers reverse engineer their batteries, they didn’t include the “hidden code” in older copies of their LP-E6 replacements that were reverse engineered from the older Canon batteries upon which they were based because the older cameras do not interact with the “hidden” lines of code.
It’s all a cat and mouse game. It usually only takes a few weeks for the top third party battery makers to crack the new protocol and include it in their copies. I use MaximalPower (Amazon is the only authorized seller) and Sterling Tek third party batteries. My older ones function fully in the 5DII and 7D, but have the limited functionality in the 5DIII and 7DII. My newer third party batteries from MaximalPower and Sterling Tek also fully function in the 5DIII and 7DII. The third party batteries seem to also handle more charge/discharge cycles before their performance noticeably degrades. That may be one reason why Canon plays such games: their own batteries aren’t as good as the best third party batteries. There are a lot of crappy third party batteries too, though.
Another thing to consider is that the genuine Canon batteries are more likely to be counterfeited and passed off as genuine by shady sellers. Fake third party batteries aren’t near as common. After all, if you’re going to make a cheap fake, why not mimic the version that sells for $60 instead of the version that sells for $20 or $10 or $5? If you buy a ‘genuine” battery from an unauthorized seller it is highly likely you have bought a fake. If you buy “genuine” or third party batteries from authorized, reputable sources you are much more likely to get what you think you are paying for.
For more about using third party batteries, please see:
Why do cameras use proprietary batteries?
Should the INFO display show the status of both batteries in a Canon battery grip?
Should I buy an original manufacturer battery, or is a generic brand OK?
I’m considering a new Camera body and am looking at Nikon Z50/Z6 series and the Cannon R/RP. It seems like both the Cannon and Nikon UI support having multiple storage folders to select from, to make it easier to sort different shoots out in the field.
There are some situations where I’d like to switch folders quickly. Does either the Nikon or Cannon UI support switching the storage folder from one of the custom/user programmable buttons on the camera body?
You mean this one from 1952?
From Canon IIIA, IVF, IVS Rangefinder Cameras of 1952
Batteries in those days would have been nearly the size of the camera. You can be pretty sure nothing of that vintage is ever going to need batteries, except for a flash,
which wouldn’t really be on rangefinder cameras for another few years.
The Canon AE-1 was an FD Mount camera, where as the Canon 60D and all Canon cameras since 1987 or so use either EF or EF-S(or both) lens mounts.
What that means, is that it is possible to use your old lenses with an adapter as you guessed. Unfortunately, the adapters don’t make actual use all that fun. They usually have issues with focusing at a distance, and actual optical quality. This is for the straight up adapter without any glass to correct.
The other option is to get an adapter that has glass in it, which can fix the infinity focus issues, but will also put a big dent in your pocket. These still aren’t perfect, but are more manageable. If you are looking to get the same quality out of an old FD lens, compared to a new “L” class lens, by using the adapter, you are going to be sad unfortunately.
If you have some old lenses already, the adapters aren’t all that expensive, under $50USD typically, so it may be worth investing in and seeing how you like it.
The first sample image in the question is focused well in front of the central pillar. The second is focused well behind the flowers.
You have told us that you are using single point AF but you haven’t told us which AF mode you are using: One Shot, AI Servo, or AI Focus? If you’re trying to focus and recompose using AI Servo the camera will refocus when you move the camera to point at a different spot. If you use AI Focus the camera will initially hold focus as it would in One Shot mode, but if you recompose and hold the camera too long in the new position the camera will sense that your selected AF point is no longer in focus and will switch over to AI Servo.
There appear to be other issues at work that might also be contributing to your results:
Diffraction The 70D is a Canon APS-C camera with 4.1µm pixel pitch. The Diffraction Limited Aperture (DLA) of the 70D is f/6.6. This is the point at which the effects of diffraction begin when viewed at the pixel level. As apertures are narrowed beyond the DLA the results get more and more noticeable at normal viewing sizes. The best way to avoid this is to shoot at around f/8 or wider and at f/6.3 or wider if possible.
Camera movement Not everyone can hold a camera steady enough to use the 1/focal length rule-of-thumb, even when viewing at the standard 8×10 sizes for which it applies. You may get useable results for viewing at smaller sizes, but nowhere near the equivalent viewing size of looking at part of an image at 100% on your monitor. If you have an HD (1920×1080 pixels) monitor that measures 23″ diagonally you are viewing images at 96 ppi. That means an 18MP image viewed at 100% is being magnified at the equivalent of 54×36 inches! That’s 5X the magnification of the standard 8×10 print.
The optical limits of your lens I’d like to know where you read excellent reviews of this lens. I’ve never seen any critical reviews from reputable reviewers written about it that impressed me very much. Before you can blame AF you need to be sure that something else isn’t causing your images to be blurred. To do that you need to eliminate as many of the other possible causes as you can.
- Mount your camera on a stable tripod, turn off optical image stabilisation, and use a cable release or the self timer to release the shutter. This will help eliminate camera movement as the source of your problem.
- Shoot under bright enough constant lighting that your shutter speed at ISO 100 can be 1/100 second or faster. Use the fullest spectrum lights available to you. This will further help to eliminate camera movement including vibrations caused by the movement of the camera’s mirror. Properly exposing using low ISO will also help eliminate poor image quality caused by a low signal-to-noise ratio and the resulting noise reduction.
- Use a flat target that is lined up parallel with your camera’s image sensor and perpendicular to the optical axis of the lens. An easy way to do this is to aim your camera at a flat, stable mirror. Center the viewfinder on the center of reflection of the lens in the mirror. Then tape your focus target onto the mirror being careful not to move the mirror.
- Use careful manual focus with magnified Live View. Take several samples while refocusing manually between each sample.
- Repeat the test shots using One Shot AF mode with the single center focus point selected. Move the lens to infinity or minimum focus between each test shot. Use a half shutter press with your cable release to allow the AF to confirm focus before taking the photo.
- Compare the best of the manually focused shots to the best of the AF shots.
If there is a significant difference then you have an AF issue. If there is not a significant difference then your problem lies elsewhere.
Comment from the OP:
I still doubt that there is a focus issue. I have been using Single shot AF in almost all pictures. And shooting at 4-5 times of 1/focal length at ISO less than 800 I doubt the hardware. Of course its difficult to doubt on ones own abilities! 🙂
Look at the examples you posted carefully at 100% magnification. You can tell by the cobblestones in the first image that focus was missed (based on what you said you attempted to focus). The second image is focused well behind the flowers in the foreground. The clock tower in the background is the most in focus area ofthe image. There are areas in both images that are in focus, they’re just not where you wanted to focus.
Do you recommend a petal lens or a cylindrical lens hood?
Neither. Use the unconventional design that Canon created for the EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM.
Since a 24mm on a 1.6X APS-C crop body has the same field of view as a 40mm lens on FF, it’s the same hood that fits the other Canon pancake lens, the EF 40mm f/2.8 STM.
The ES-52 lens hood:
For how this type of design works, please see: How does lens-hoods for pancake lenses work? (Canon EF 40mm with ES-52)
If you want a cheap knock-off, they’re out there too. They claim to be made of aluminum alloy, just like the Canon.