Which is the better lens: Canon 28-80 USM I, 28-70 f/3.5-4.5 II or 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 II?

I own a Canon 6D and I need a general purpose zoom but I can’t afford to buy an L lens, even an used one.

I’ve read here about 28-80 USM I and 28-70 f/3.5-4.5 II. The author claims that those lenses are sharp. I couldn’t find any MTF or chart with those lenses on a FF camera.

At about the same price I can buy a 28-105 f/2.5-4.5 USM but from charts it seem its resolution is horrible. Apart from bad sharpness, it has very poor contrast. I’ve seen chart shot with it on this site .

Can 28-80 or 28-70 be any better?

Is there any better old, cheap consumer zoom from Tamron, Tokina or Sigma which can be had for around 100 USD used?

Lens for shooting paintings with Canon 550d

When photographing artworks for sale, I use Canon’s 24-70 f/2.8, which is way out of your budget; However, the reasion I do this is that with a compatible camera body, it stores a lens profile in the image produced that can correct for distortions during post-processing. A list of currently supported lenses is available from the Adobe website

You don’t need a lens that expensive though; If you use the RAW mode on your camera and use Adobe Lightroom, then you can correct most distortions by hand, if a lens profile is not available. In which case, I’d probably look to recommend a lens that is going to be flexible and allow you to work in tight situations, such as in the artist’s studio. You won’t be needing a particularly wide aperture/narrow depth of field for this (otherwise the 50 f/1.8 is one of the best value for money Canon lenses), but you might need some fairly wide angles for some of the larger pieces, if you are in confined spaces, in which case, I’d probably err towards the 18-135 that you’re already considering – it might mean a little more work getting the post-processing sorted, but it is a good all range for use as a general purpose lens.

canon – Where can I find or make a script for focus stacking using Raynox DCR 250?

Really old thread. Anyway, it seems people confuse ‘stacking’ and ‘bracketing’. Bracketing is used to capture a number of pictures of a scene while varying a parameter, exposure, focus, what have you. Stacking is a post processing technique for combining bracketed photos to create HDR or increased depth of field, for instance.

For the original posters question, long time back i loaded up my Canon A720IS with the hacked CHDK firmware which facilitates scripting and wrote a script based on the hyperfocal distances. It worked ok and stacking the focus bracketed shots did result in enhanced DOF.

Some google fu came up with https://chdk.fandom.com/wiki/UBASIC/Scripts/CanonA640:_Focus_Bracketing

LCD screen of Canon showing black in auto mode

Whether an image is automatically displayed or not following capture can be turned on or off using the menu on all digital Canon EOS cameras. If you have selected a setting that displays the image, you can also select from several options that determine for how long the review image is displayed. You may have turned it off without realizing what you were doing. The reason you see it when in the C1 mode is that the C1 mode was set up before you accidently changed the setting. When you turn the dial to C1 it uses the settings active at the time you recorded the then-current settings to C1.¹

You can turn image review on or off using the Shooting1 (red) menu tab of your camera’s menu. From page 180 of the EOS Rebel T5/1200D Instruction Manual:

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To control when the settings appear on the screen, use the Setup2 (yellow) menu tab of your camera’s menu. From page 193 of the Manual:

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For Live View, please be sure you have Live View enabled under the last tab of the Shooting (red) menu:

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¹ This, of course, requires a Canon camera that offers user configurable “Custom” modes on the mode dial. The EOS Rebel T5/1200D does not include this feature.

Canon 70-300mm blurry wide open at infinity – stars and distant lights

I’m having a problem with Canon T1i + Canon 70-300mm USM IS lens at 300mm and wide open at f/5.6.

Shutting night sky with a tripod I started noticing that the stars and planets are forming a “drop shape”, angled 45 degrees. Speeds between 0,5s and 1s at ISO 1600 (grainy)

I am using tripod, mirror lockup, remote shutter release and 10 seconds delay.

Started noticing it when trying to capture the Neowise comet back in July/August(?).

Yesterday night I pointed at a red light in a cell tower (a stationary light) to check if the problem occurs. And yes, the tower light is blurred at 45 degrees angle.
So, I’ve tried tilting the camera sideways, at a 90 degree angle. The image resulted in drop shape stars angled +45 degrees relative to the previous images. Mind blowing.

I am trying my best to pinpoint focus at infinity, both with AF and Live View.
I don’t know what to do, what kind of tests I should perform.
My camera doesn’t have micro focus adjustment.

Any help is highly appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Ivan

300mm f/5.6 2.5s @ ISO 1600 1

canon – How to avoid clogging / drying out of an inkjet printer if it is not used over a longer period of time?

I am planning to purchase an inkjet printer: either an a Canon imagePrograf Pro-1000 or an Epson SureColor SC-P900.

During the first few weeks I will have some printing jobs. But then the printer will not be used for 6 to 12 months.

  1. During the shutdown time it will probably not possible to supply the printer with power. How do I avoid the drying out or clogging of the print head and the ink system?

  2. If the printer can be powered, do they automatically clean themself from time to time?

I checked in the manuals and on the internet but I did not find any information on this.


canon – Picture looking sharp in Live View mode, then losing sharpness after picture has being taken

Since recently I am experiencing an issue with the sharpness of my images.

I am using canon 70D with a macro lens for shooting jewellery and I need to have a very clear picture to capture the brilliance of the crystals. That’s why I am using a tripod, I am using tethering between computer and camera and I shoot from the software program basically – my camera is as still as it gets when taking a photo.

What happens is that the crystals of the jewellery look sharp when I am looking at Live View mode and then when I look at the picture after it has been shot sharpness is lost to a certain extend.

This is how the image looks before taking the picture (in live view mode):

This is how it looks afterwards:

I took these pictures with my smartphone capturing the screen of the camera. If you look closely you will see the difference. It won’t be noticeable in daily life pictures I suppose, but for my job, it is an issue.

Does anybody have an idea what is the problem here ? I recently upgraded the firmware to 1.1.3 (canon 70D), of course, that shouldn’t be an issue, but I figured I will mention it.

Thank you!

printer – Canon Pixma MG7150 the following ink tank cannot be recognised – reset

Canon Pixma MG7150 is giving error message ‘the following in tank cannot be recognised (support code 1410). It has started doing this on cartridges that have been working fine for months. The panel indicates that there is a problem with all the cartridges except for yellow, but when I open the cover the red light is off only on PGBK. The red light comes on again when I take it out and replace it again (but then it goes off). This particular model does not have external buttons to reset the whole machine, and the 1410 error message prevents reset through the screen. Any solutions much appreciated.

canon – Analog film camera not taking multiple pictures

I have recently purchased a Canon Sure Shot AF-7 which appears to be in excellent condition. However, when I do not have film in it the shutter, flash etc. works perfectly well but after loading the film the camera does not allow me to take more than 1 picture.
Although after some experimenting I have discovered that I can take 1 picture, take the batteries out, put the batteries back in and then take another picture.
I am unsure if this could be an issue with the batteries as the recommended batteries are AA Ni-cd batteries (not very common anymore) but I am using 2 AA rechargeable batteries.

Any idea what could be giving me this problem?

troubleshooting – Canon T7i- won’t power on

My 3 year old Canon T7i suddenly decided to stop turning on. I’ve tried everything including

  • powering the battery fully
  • replacing the battery twice
  • changing the lense
  • switching the microswitches on the battery and SD card doors
  • replaced the SD card
  • connecting the camera to my laptop
  • leaving the fully charged battery out overnight
  • opened the camera body to check for lose connections

Still won’t power on. Any other tips?

I searched online and found the t6i has a button cell battery on the main board.. but i didn’t see one on mine. Perhaps it’s on the underside of the board.

Anyone have internal schematics of the T7i body?

I contacted a local repair shop and he told me to send it to canon… I don’t want to pay $400 to repair it when I could buy a t8i body for $750….