samsung – Is it safe to manually “clear cache” of apps on Android?

Ever since I updated Device Care on my Samsung Galaxy A10s running Android Pie, I lost my “Clear Space” option that clears unnecessary data, including cache of all apps including system apps on my phone!

Since, I’m not installing any third party apps, for this purpose, I decided to manually “clear cache” of any desired apps from Settings > Apps > App name and tapping Clear Cache. To my surprise, I found the Gallery app has about half a GB of cache, and I immediately cleared it.

I realize that apps cache stuff to improve performance, predict data to auto fill on text boxes, and various other stuff, to improve user experience. But that’s taking up a lot of my Internal memory!

My question is :

  • Is this a safe practice?

  • Will this procedure damage the executable or normal functioning of my app?

  • Or, whether all these are dependent on the App developer / manufacturer ?

  • For default apps like Gallery or Chrome is this a safe practice?

troubleshooting – Minolta XE-7 photographing Ilford Delta 400 B&W 35 mm. The film came out clear, except for around 5 decent exhibitions

I just bought a Minolta xe-7, pulled my first roll and developed it at home. The result was a roll of film that came out almost completely apart from the fist, several exposures on the roll and a few white spots here and there.

The film has edge marks that seem to indicate that the development process went well, and all I can find on this point points to a camera problem.

However, I tested the camera before and after loading the film and the shutter opens and closes very well, and I had no problem doing advance the film while shooting. The Safe Load Indicator moved as it should and the chassis counter advanced properly and stopped when the roll ended.

So far I can't find a satisfactory answer, so I hope someone here can help me. Thank you!

InfoPath – Clear the value of a multiple select field when another value of multiple select field changes

I am using InfoPath 2013. I have 2 multiple selection fields ABC and XYZ. For example, let's say,

  • The multiple selection field ABC has values ​​SAP, Oracle, I&D
  • The XYZ field has HANA, Ariba, SAP Cloud values.

The multiple selection field XYZ is hidden until SAP is chosen in ABC.
When the XYZ field is displayed and values ​​are selected there, I decide to replace the ABC value with Oracle. Now, the XYZ field is hidden but the selected values ​​remain there. I want to clear the values ​​of the XYZ field when it is hidden. This should also work in new views, modify and display the views. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

My Unity game timers are wasted when it is played in the browser, and the tab / page is not clear?

I did timer classes, which basically

  • hold a time elapsed value,
  • and when they are updated, Time.deltaTime is added,
  • and their update is called MonoBehaviours Updates.

And a problem appeared:

  • On a machine with Firefox, diffusion my game, the tab was blurry for 30 seconds,

    • And the timers stopped after a while.

    • The time after which the timers stopped, always varied.

  • On a machine with Firefox, emphasizes focus didn't do much, but blurred browser made.

    • At each race, the the effect was random, sometimes time has stopped, sometimes slowly, etc.
  • On my machine, both with Chromium and Firefox, both with swtching tabs and change window

    • Time went at a speed like 30% when not in focus, and when we go back, everything was normal again.


spfx – Clear the control of the people selector when clicking on the button

I am using the People Picker control in my SPFx Web Part.

I want to clear the value of this control at the click of the button.

as mentioned in the comments here, I tried to define the value of defaultSelectedUsers to an empty board, but I still can't clear the people picker.

How can I get the above behavior?

dnd 5th – Does the hex spell require a clear path when moved to a second target?

It depends on whether your GM thinks you are targeting someone when you move hex

In Chapter 10: Spellcasting, there is the section "A clear path to the target", which says:

To target something, you need to have a clear path so that it is not behind the total coverage. […]

This applies to all instances of a spell targeting someone – but moves hex a new creature actually targets them?

In addition, the "Total Coverage" section indicates:

A target with full coverage cannot be directly targeted by an attack or spell, although some spells can hit such a target by including it in an area of ​​effect. A target has full coverage if it is completely hidden by an obstacle.

If someone is behind a window and thus has full coverage, they cannot be targeted by a spell. We meet the same question, is it hex target someone when you move them to a new creature?

The following Q / A discusses it in relation to the metamagic of the sorcerer's twin spells:

And this Q / A discusses what counts as spell targets in general:

There is a lot of debate about what counts as a target. There is a reason why the paired spell is asked so often here and it is because what counts as a target for a spell is not particularly clear. Many people disagree, so you will need to ask your general manager if hex target someone when you move it. If it is, a window will stop it.

What this GM would decide

I would say that hex target someone when you move it. You actively choose to assign a creature with the spell and for me that is enough to conclude that you are targeting it.

Google Sheets Script Clear cell from sheet A after submitting value via form on sheet B

NOTICE – I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to scripting. I do a lot of Google research, cutting, pasting, editing, research, etc. I haven't been able to find what I need for this dilemma although I think it should be fairly easy.

In short

I need a specific cell cleared in sheet A (MaintenanceLogs) after submitting form data to sheet B (ClearMaintenanceFlag).

Sheet B contains the search data in column B that I want to search on column B of sheet A and clear the cell on the corresponding row on F in sheet A.

End user process

Users submit maintenance logs via a form (sheet A) and when they perform routine maintenance if they find something that requires follow-up, they check a box on the form that returns a "Yes "in column F. Column B of the maintenance logs contains a UniqueID generated when submitting its maintenance log.

When they correct the reported maintenance, they submit the unique identifier via the form that creates a log to indicate that the reported item has been corrected. We then want to remove the "flag" from the maintenance log.

My understanding

As mentioned, I'm a bit of a novice. I can do an obvious search function to find the said identifier and return the data from the indicator column, but putting it all together in an automated script ……… I'm a bit lost.

I think I should have an onChange event ?? or on Submit? I just don't know the syntax to remove it. I have done a lot of reading but it is a lot for a noob to collect. Glad to pay to make it work.

Final result

At the end, we want the "flag" to disappear from the maintenance log. I use filters, etc. to create filtered lists that show the maintenance items still in progress, so when the indicator disappears, my list is updated.

Confidence that makes sense. If someone could point me in the right direction, it would be incredible.

sharpness – Why are my photos not clear?

The technique is generally faulty with "blurry" images 99% of the time with someone new to interchangeable lens cameras (ILCs) with only a low cost kit lens.

The lens is do not the problem. Low-end kit lenses are limited, and they're cheap, and there are much nicer lenses, but How? 'Or' What using one is more likely to be the fault than what the glass is in the lens. People will often blame the goal because they assume a basic mastery of the technique, or because it's just easier than wondering if it could be a lack of knowledge / Expertise, and because there are so many discussions online where people are disparaging the modest purpose of the kit. But kit lenses are surprisingly good, especially for the cost, if you know how to use them. All you have to do is look at any Kit Lens challenge to see it.

Here are some issues that you need to fix, because some or all of them could be involved in your images.

Getting started technique

Nine times out of ten when I see someone shoot with an ILC, they don't hold it properly. If your left hand is cut around the left side of the lens, the little finger closest to your subject, you are wrong. You want your left hand to be cut under the lens / body, palm up, with your little finger closer to you. You can still use the lens rings with your thumb and forefinger in this position. And now your left hand is strengthened to support the full weight of the camera / lens, rather than having the camera hugging your right hand. This is a much more stable grip which allows you to use slower shutter speeds.

Extremes of openness

Openness is an act of balance. On the one hand, the more the lens is open, the more light you get, and the lower your ISO setting and the faster your shutter speed can be. However, any lens used wide open is at its weakest point. Most lenses work significantly better when stopped 1-2 stops from a large aperture (the EF 50mm f / 1.8 II is particularly guilty of this). Chromatic aberration, vignetting and smoothness can all be improved simply by not using the lens at its maximum aperture. A ton of your photos with your 18-55 are 55mm, f / 5.6. Stop it at f / 8, and you will see a little more sharpness. And using too small an aperture, especially with today's pixel densities, can also see diffraction softening things up. So it's probably not good to use apertures smaller than f / 16, unless you have a good reason to do so.

In addition, not shooting wide open gives you more depth of field, which gives you more latitude with the precision of the autofocus. A 50mm f / 1.8 II at certain distances from the subject, if it is wide open, gives a DoF which can be measured in millimeters. Any slight movement of the subject or the camera may cause the focus to drop. Exchanging a background blur for better focus is often worth it.


This is not as common a cause of blurring as most people assume; the first assumption that most newbies do whenever something is blurry is that it's a focus problem. But when you let the camera's autofocus system take over, the problem is that the camera is not smart enough to know what the subject of the camera is ; image and focus on it. Learn the different autofocus modes (such as face detection and automatic eye focus) and when to use them, how to select points or areas of autofocus, how to track autofocus and how to half press and recompose your weapons, here.

If this is a focus issue, check the rest of the frame to see if anything else was in focus. With your wave planes, you will notice that sections of the waves are sharp and perfectly focused, while other parts outside your depth of field are not. If you had stopped at a smaller aperture (for example, f / 11), more of the wave would have been in focus.

Also, don't expect miracles in low light. Cameras need more light to "see" than your eyes. It is normal for autofocus systems to hunt in dark conditions. Your flash can send more light to help focus, or you can use live view and 10x magnification (if your camera is on a tripod) with manual focus when autofocus failed. Pay attention to the "green dot" AF confirmation in the viewfinder.

Minimum focusing distance

If you're from the world of P&S cameras / smartphones, you probably don't know that most lenses can only focus so close (that's why macro lenses exist). Small sensors mean just as small lenses, with very short focal lengths, which is equivalent to a very large DoF, and very good near focus capabilities. When you switch to an APS-C sensor and your lenses get proportionately larger, this minimum focusing distance also increases. The EF-S 18-55 cannot focus on anything closer than 25 cm. Your blurry close-up demonstrates it. You would need a poor man's macro lens or macro methods (close-up filter, extension tubes, inverted lens) to take a closer look.

Shutter speed too slow

Shutter speed can affect you more if you use a longer lens, but even with IS, there is still a lower limit, and that assumes you have a good grip technique to start with. If you're shooting with one hand, if you don't know how to stall your feet or time your breathing, you'll need a faster shutter speed. 1 / 30s is a typical threshold, and there is a basic rule of about 1 / focal_length or faster. Some people would multiply that by 2, or also add the crop factor. @ 55mm, this would mean using a shutter speed of about 1 / 100s or faster. And it is with a stationary subject. With a moving subject, to "freeze" the movement and avoid blurring, you may need an even higher shutter speed, and the height depends on the speed at which your subject is moving.

Also consider using physical stabilization for very slow shutter speeds: a tripod, monopod or beanbag can make a big difference. Plus, for macro shooting, everything is magnified – camera shake or subject movement included. 1 / focal_length may not cut it the closer you get.

Pixel post-processing and optimization

Don't take a look at the pixels to judge the sharpness, unless you are a lens tester :). Look at the picture as a whole. Asking for perfect perfection like a razor on every pixel of an image is a big and big question. Very few lenses are up to the task, and certainly not a kit lens used wide open with poor technique.

Also be aware that P&S cameras, smartphone apps and most photographers improve the sharpness / contrast / saturation of an image through processing. Don't expect JPEG files directly from the camera – unless you have asked the camera to add these – look as sharp / contrasting / saturated as web images that were taken in RAW and post-processed with care and competence. .

See also: Why am I having trouble getting accurate results with my new DSLR …?

Google Sheets – How To Clear Duplicate Data While Typing?

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