In a reflective surface, the reflections are of the surrounding area.
1. The bigger the object the bigger space you need
So, in your case, you need a really big space clean, let’s say painted on white, like a photo studio.
Look how humungous and clean a photo studio can be. I think you need about the space to fit two or three cars.
A 90° corner could work so you only need to fix two walls. A flat surface, not an industrial brick. You can put white ceramic mosaics in that zone.
2. Put the furniture in an angle
So you reflect what is on the side of the furniture, not what is behind you.
If you use a wide lens, the elements that are reflected will appear smaller, which is not good because you need a bigger wall, so try to use a longer focal length and step back.
3. You could “fake” a big room
Using big pieces of white fabric, 1.5 m width and like 2-10 m long. Use stretchy material like Lycra, a tripod, multiple shots, and 2-4 assistants.
Take two large rigid metal tubes aluminum or steel. Fix the fabric and use them as a big banner.
Put the camera on a tripod, frame the product, concentrate the effort in protecting the reflection of one zone, let’s say the reflection of one door. Take one photo. And DO NOT MOVE THE CAMERA.
Protect the reflection on another door, and take another photo. Keep doing this. Until you have all the faces of the product taken.
Use some more as a background.
Composite the images in Photoshop or Gimp. Add more background later, focus only on the reflections and the immediate stuff behind the product.
4. Or as your company constructs metal frames
Make some big metal panels that can be covered with the stretchy cloth to have a portable studio room.
5. Make a 3D model of them
The shapes are pretty simple… you could model them quite easily.
Product photography is an art in itself. We are not focusing for now on how to properly lit the product, only to improve to some extent the resulting image.
If you want to push this to the next level we need to think in terms of light sources, which will turn some of your white fabric into light sources themselves, but that will not only complicate things for you, but it will take some years of expertise.
Photographing even small reflective objects are some of the trickiest things to photograph. You probably need to hire a photographer to have great images.
My party is about to face a beholderkin overseer. Its Major Creation ray states that it uses it to create miscellaneous gear that could be useful to itself or its minions. What sorts of items might it create? I cannot think what items a beholder or beholderkin might find useful.
I looked in Lords of Madness for a reference, and it had some beholder magic items, but did not have any suggestions for what common items beholders might find useful. Might there be any written source for such a list?
I did find at RPGNet a list of 101 uses for Major Creation, but these are all human uses. Very few of them would be useful to a beholder.
Here are some of the ones that I liked from the list:
Pile of Fool’s Gold Coins
Weapons/armor (what sort of weapon/armor could a beholder wear?)
Aquarium (could this work to start drowning a PC?)
My own idea:
Poison (can you create poison with Major Creation?)
Edit: For context, here are the specifics of my campaign.
The party is tier 4, currently 11th level. The party consists of:
Fighter / Rogue / Master Thrower
Ranger / Halfling Outrider
Adept / Church Inquisitor
The party has obtained the assistance of some NPC allies (a pirate crew):
The pirate crew, while allies with the party, obviously have their own agenda, but can lend aid in the fight against the beholder.
Both the party, the beholder, and its thralls seek entrance to a sealed-off castle. The magics sealing off the castle extend into the astral plane (so the Helm of Teleportation the beholderkin overseer found is useless in gaining entrance).
The party convinced the beholderkin that they were allies, but withheld the information on the specifics of how to enter the castle (mainly because they did not know how to gain entrance). The party is well-aware that the beholderkin will betray them at its earliest possible convenience. The party claimed they needed more powerful magics to gain access, to which the beholderkin suggested they raid a nearby drow city to obtain more power (the drow have actually been raiding the beholder’s lair, and the beholder hopes that the party will be slaughtered, and in the process, cause injury to the drow, all without the beholder having to use any of its own resources).
Instead, the party betrayed the beholderkin and allied themselves with drow who worship the Shadow (which was a bit surprising to me, as the drow attempted to betray the party every time they tried to interact with them). Still, they stayed true to the course, and decided to maintain their tenuous alliance with the drow.
The party had several options for where to obtain information for how to get past the magical barrier. The drow certainly have a method of access (although the drow claim the castle holds little mystery for them). Basically, the drow have access to Shadow Walk, which would allow the party to bypass the barrier. Similarly, the party could have sought a source of etherealness to bypass the barrier.
The drow refuse to provide the means to traverse the barrier without the party first dispatching of their beholderkin enemies. So, the party plans to return to the beholders and slaughter them all.
So, that is where the party is at. The beholderkin overseer has the following forces under its thrall:
Additionally, the beholderkin has allied itself with a goblin (blue) thrallherd who has a small army of goblins. This alliance is based entirely around Dominate Person, which the beholderkin applies judiciously to the blue (ensuring a permanent domination of the entire goblin tribe).
The party has plans to break the beholderkin’s thrall using Protection from Evil to temporarily make an alliance with the goblins (for a period of 11 minutes per casting). They hope to cause the goblins and the beholderkin to slaughter each other (massacre/massacre). Then, once that settles down, they hope to face a severely depleted beholderkin force.
Beholders, being of incredibly high intellect, likely have prepared for this eventuality, and would want to have plans on top of plans for what to do when the goblins eventually revolt. So, this will not be a surprise to them. Still, the goblins will manage to slay several of the beholderkin forces before being annihilated to a man.
But then, it will be the party’s turn. The main beholder will be killed (as was the beholderkin overseer’s plan all along to remove a rival who was increasingly becoming difficult to control and finding ways to break the domination effect), leaving the overseer vulnerable. Once the party dispatches the remaining beholderkin, it will come down to a fight between the overseer and the party. It is this final battle I am trying to prepare for.
So, what specific items might the overseer create for the beholderkin that survive?
My younger sister is going to college to study photography, and I want to surprise her with a camera this holidays.
Just don’t. This is not a matter of warming up somebody for a hobby. She will have very specific needs for specific gear and will get instructions for what she should be getting. This is like “my brother is going into professional cycling and I thought I’d surprise him with a bike”.
There just is no way that some people on the Internet will know better than her educators what kind of stuff she should be getting. And even they did, she’d not get credit for ignoring her educators’ proposals.
And she’d need to balance between being polite and sabotaging her education.
A gift certificate already sounds like a better idea, but it may be that she’d be best off putting down a bunch of cash at some specific place giving student credits, so if you don’t tie your support to a specific camera shop, you are likely being most flexible in helping her shoulder the costs of her first steps.
I am a beginner in mining digital currencies. And not so long ago I was closely following the news of digital currencies and digital currency mining devices, but I discovered that the device has a specific period of time either to be damaged or the market currency price is collapsing, so the production of the device decreases, for example: a month ago I bought a hummer miner mars h1 device to mining crypto handshake and within a month Only the capital has been recovered okay and now I intend to invest a huge amount in the purchase of a large number of devices Is this project worth or not investment in it?
Those things you must have in your list for a basic product shoot studio are that:
White bounce cards made of foam
Plenty of lighting
Regarding backdrop, about the same number of consumers (38%) say they’re most likely to buy a product if the images have a plain white background as the number who say they want to see photos contextually (37%). That means you can’t please everyone. So, try different backgrounds, isolate the image, set the stage with lots of props, play with the lighting, and shoot from different angles.
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I want to start a YouTube channel to explain electronics and circuits, ideally with quality like in this video. I have watched over 50 videos on YouTube and tried to understand their configurations, but I could not find the details I need.
I have a budget of around $ 600 to $ 700 (in the U.S.), and the main things I need are:
Wiring must be very clear
The references written on the chips are important
The lighting should be of the same quality as in the video above, and not dull.
What type of equipment would I need to accomplish this and should I be spending money on cameras, lenses, lighting equipment or something else?
Generally speaking, older camera housings were made of metal and tend to withstand much more abuse than their modern counterparts (mostly plastic). Older glasses, however, have coatings that are often softer than modern glasses, and care must be taken not to scratch them.
The Canon AT-1, however, is a derivative of the Canon AE-1, which has a plastic top plate despite its metallic appearance. I would try to avoid using strong solvents like isopropyl alcohol or naphtha (lighter fluid) which are generally recommended for cleaning metallic bodies. The wet wipes they sell for the purpose of cleaning smartphones and screens should be a good option. You can also use them to clean the outside of the lens housing (but not the lens surfaces, see below). For extremely stubborn stains, try a small amount of alcohol on a cotton swab; for corrosion, a small amount of vinegar. (Anecdotal evidence: I used naphtha and vinegar on the body of Minolta XD series cameras, which I believe have a similar metallic plastic top plate, with no ill effects. But I can't not guarantee that Canon materials are exactly the same. Emptor.)
To clean the lenses and the interior of the camera, you will need the following:
A lens blower. This is extremely useful – I would say essential – for blowing small particles on the surfaces of the lens and also from inside the camera.
A lens cleaning cloth. It is best to use cloths specially designed to clean the lenses (or glasses). These are usually of a very fine synthetic microfiber design.
Lens cleaning fluid if the lenses are very dirty or greasy. Here opinions vary: some people use isopropyl alcohol, others use an exclusive lens cleaning liquid. Special "wet lens wipes" are also available.
Maybe vinegar (acetic acid).
Cotton buttons (Q-tips).
The mirror housing behind the lens mount collects dust and dirt over time. Use the lens blower to force it all. Do not try to clean the mirror or the focusing screen: these are delicate parts and very easy to scratch, dissolve or knock out.
Again, use the lens blower to get rid of dust, dirt, pieces of film and so on. Be careful, however, not to put dirt in the shutter! Finish by sweeping with cotton swabs if necessary, paying particular attention to the film guide rails above and below the shutter (a cotton swab moistened with alcohol or a lighter fluid is very effective here).
(Note: the seals between the body and the door decay over time and are most likely reduced to a slimy substance now. If you notice light leakage when using the camera, you will need to replace them, another relatively simple DIY task.)
Do not forget to clean the battery compartment. A number of electrical problems with the cameras are the result of corroded or dirty battery contacts. If there is corrosion, use vinegar with cotton swabs to get rid of it. Don't use the lens blower here: if there is dry corrosion here from the batteries, you don't want to breathe that stuff.
Extremely important: Before doing anything else, use the lens blower to blow out any loose particles from the surface of the lens. You do not want these particles around when you slide the lens with a cloth or wipe, otherwise you may scratch the surface. Then, starting with the front lens element:
Breathe in the lens to hydrate it, and slowly wipe with the dedicated lens cleaning cloth or wet lens wipe, making a circular motion from the inside towards the perimeter of the lens. The key is to apply as little pressure as possible.
If the lens is still dirty, repeat the procedure, ideally using another part of the tissue.
If the lens is still dirty, apply a small amount of lens cleaning liquid or alcohol to the fabric (or a cotton swab), never directly on the surface of the lens and wipe gently again.
This should be enough in most cases, but if the lens is very stained (for example, a lot of fingerprints), you may need to repeat the procedure. The main thing is to work in small increments and never wipe the lens with an already dirty piece of cloth.
Then do the same for the rear element. Be careful: stripes on a rear element degrade image quality much more than stripes on a front element.
I found the wire for the diffuser for the flashes here, but wanted to check the options available for the bare bulb flashes, especially the Godox AD360ii.
I will be traveling to Vietnam for 3 weeks in December 2016 – January 2017, and I plan to backpack from north to south by motorbike / bus / train. I'd love to see what options are available for portable configurations, but I'd be willing to sacrifice the extra weight if the diffuser is much better. I will also have a nano-manfrotto light holder attached to the side of the bag.
It looks really promising, from the last thread, and I think I can install something so that the bare bulb flash will fit into this mounting bracket.
The quality of the light is very important to me, so ideally I would like the light to be as soft as possible.
In case you were asking why the bare bulb vs the flashes: I want the output to be able to dominate the sun, as well as the HSS capabilities easier (I hate playing with ND filters, especially for travel) . Currently, my solution would be the Westcott foldable umbrella, but I would love something a little more effective. A foldable beauty dish also looks promising, but I didn't know if there were much better solutions.
Some uses of the flash will be for editorial-type portraits in remote areas that I can cycle to. I will use a 40L bag equivalent, or the Thule Covert for my main trips.
I didn't know if it was necessary, but for reference, I will bring the Sony A7RII, 24-70L II, 50L, 16-35L II, Ricoh GR.
I would greatly appreciate any recommendations or ideas from other experienced travel photographers. Thank you. (And yes, I know that my pack will consist of majority cameras. Again, portrait and landscape will be a priority)