linux – How to use fastboot to flash stock Android ROM using Ubuntu

I know i can use fastboot flash recovery recovery.img to flash a custom recovery (on Windows).
I managed to brick my phone in the process of installing a custom mobile operating system.
So I start again. I have a stock Android ROM in my local machine but don't know how
to use fastboot to flash it on the phone.

fastboot flash boot (location) Where does fastboot look for the file in Ubuntu?

flash – Why don't my flashes produce their full power in HSS?

As stated in another answer, high speed synchronization has limits on the power available, due to the way the flash should be used to illuminate the full frame. There are several ways around this problem.

As you have noticed that a dark stripe in the frame would be acceptable, since you really only need the window, one method would be to disable the HSS. This will give you a strip the width of the shutter slot, at the bottom of the image, which is properly exposed by the flash – if this strip is wide enough for your needs, this is something something you may need to determine from experience, but if you just go up from 1/200 to 1/500, you should get something like 40% of the frame lit by the flash.

However, there is probably an easier way around this: with the camera on a tripod, take an image with the flash off (giving a properly exposed external view) and one with the flash on automatically or set manually to properly expose the interior, then use HDR software to combine the two. This can also be done manually in any photo editor, simply by cutting out the bright parts of the window and pasting them into the interior image, or even combining them on different layers and using a brightness mask to let the outside appear through the inside – but an HDR processor is much easier to use and should work well.

There is also an old-fashioned method for doing this, which would have worked well with film: add more flash heads and stop or use a neutral density filter to get outside exposure less than the speed of synchronization. It will also work for digital, so you don't need to take two images with different settings and you can see the end result on the camera screen and be sure of it. ; have obtained the photo you want before leaving the room. You may need to research the guide numbers to determine the number of flash heads you will need, but if you are only one or two stops outside, this will not exceed four.

flash – Flashes do not take full power in HSS

As stated in another answer, high speed synchronization has limits on the power available, due to the way the flash should be used to illuminate the full frame. There are several ways around this problem.

As you have noticed that a dark stripe in the frame would be acceptable, since you really only need the window, one method would be to disable the HSS. This will give you a strip the width of the shutter slot, at the bottom of the image, which is properly exposed by the flash – if this strip is wide enough for your needs, this is something something you may need to determine from experience, but if you just go up from 1/200 to 1/500, you should get something like 40% of the frame lit by the flash.

However, there is probably an easier way around this: with the camera on a tripod, take an image with the flash off (giving a properly exposed external view) and one with the flash on automatically or set manually to properly expose the interior, then use HDR software to combine the two. This can also be done manually in any photo editor, simply by cutting out the bright parts of the window and pasting them into the interior image, or even combining them on different layers and using a brightness mask to let the outside appear through the inside – but an HDR processor is much easier to use and should work well.

There is also an old-fashioned method for doing this, which would have worked well with film: add more flash heads and stop or use a neutral density filter to get outside exposure less than the speed of synchronization. It will also work for digital, so you don't need to take two images with different settings and you can see the end result on the camera screen and be sure of it. ; have obtained the photo you want before leaving the room. You may need to research the guide numbers to determine the number of flash heads you will need, but if you are only one or two stops outside, this will not exceed four.

Flash Network – What is your opinion on the block size debate?

I have been following Bitcoin for a few years now, and I was wondering what the developers are thinking here about block size right now.

I realize that we can never evolve towards millions of transactions per second on the chain, I understand that – that's why LN etc. is under construction to also maintain the decentralization of Bitcoins while continuing to evolve. But wouldn't that also benefit the Lightning network, that more "deposits" on the chain to LN could be made in one block (imagine a few million users trying to access LN at the same time – the Bitcoins blockchain would be blocked quickly – essentially meaning no deposit in LN for a long time?).

If the block size has been increased to say 10 times (10 MB): I realize that Bitcoin node operators would start to experience problems with storing the fast growing blockchain (more centralization) – but then again , is it really necessary that everyone can execute a knot? Aren't nodes primarily used for miners and programmers?

I realize that validating your own transactions is a great thing, but should that be hindering scaling up on the chain? It is a cutting edge, but I think we have to find a balance. Either way, at 10MB we would be increasing the blockchain by 1.4GB per day, or 500GB per year (assuming the blocks are full), which is a lot. But then again, it's not unusual to see hard drives the size of a few double-digit TB these days – it seems that capacity is on an increasing trend, so maybe decentralization is possible. after all at this size? I'm really curious to hear more arguments against increasing the size of the blocks, now that a few years have passed since the big boom 🙂

My Nikon D7200 built-in flash does not work

I used the flash a few days ago, but that day I tried to use it, but the flash fires but does not fire, I thought it was was just a low battery problem and I kept the camera at rest for a week, but when I used it recently the same problem occurs. What should I do??? Does the external flash work if we use it instead of being integrated? How much do you think the repair will cost? Is there a setting error? Please help !!!

flash – How to use a flash for real estate photography?

I manage a real estate agency and we recently invested in a new camera, a wide angle lens and a flash to improve the quality of our photographs. Depending on the client's budget, we sometimes cannot afford to educate a professional photographer.

I can't wait to take a photography course but I don't have time yet.

So my question is, where should I point the flash when I take a photo inside the properties?

Here are my results from a property today.

Can anyone suggest how to improve the results and, in particular, where in general I should point the flash?

I read this guide but it didn't really help me.

root access – i just pulled my phone out of a bootloop, should i flash magisk or is it too risky?

My phone was stuck on a bootloop, and I fixed it by typing adb reboot bootloader in cmd.
I didn't even type that, Bi typed adb reboot bootloade and forgot the r but it still worked.
I'm just wondering because I won't have another phone if it's masonry or stuck in a bootloop, is it too risky to flash magisk or?

flash – Why can't I connect my Yongnuo trigger to my Godox flash?

Yongnuo's radio trigger is incompatible with that of Godox. If you don't have a second Yongnuo RF-603 II attached to the base of the V860II-N to act as a radio receiver, they can't "talk" to each other.

If you make have a second RF-603 II and it does not work, check that your transmitter is correctly positioned in the claw forward; in TX mode and not in TRX mode if not used on a Nikon or Canon camera; that both are configured to use the same channel; and that the V860II is in “on camera” mode (see also: My Godox flash does not fire outside the camera. What should I check?). But the big downside of using the RF-603 II triggers is that they are manual only and that all you can say to the flash is to fire.

Most of us would get a Godox transceiver, because it could use the transceiver built into the Godox V860II, as well as allow you to use TTL and HSS, and give you remote control of power, group and zoom. I would recommend looking at a Godox X2T-N or XPro-N; Adorama's exclusive Flashpoint R2 Pro II-N; or another Godox TTL Speedlite (like a TT350) as a trigger, not a Yongnuo RF-603 II. If you're really broke and in the U.S. and only want to pay $ 25 for a trigger, there's also the Flashpoint SPT transceiver, but it looks more like a Yongnuo RF-605. You will only have synchronization (fire) and group control.

flash – Why can't I connect my Yongnuo RF-603N II trigger to my Godox V860 II flash?

Yongnuo's radio trigger is incompatible with that of Godox. If you don't have a second Yongnuo RF-603 II attached to the base of the V860II-N to act as a radio receiver, they can't "talk" to each other.

If you make have a second RF-603 II and it does not work, check that your transmitter is correctly positioned in the claw forward; in TX mode and not in TRX mode if not used on a Nikon or Canon camera; that both are configured to use the same channel; and that the V860II is in “on camera” mode (see also: My Godox flash does not fire outside the camera. What should I check?). But the big downside of using the RF-603 II triggers is that they are manual only and that all you can say to the flash is to fire.

Most of us would get a Godox transceiver, because it could use the transceiver built into the Godox V860II, as well as allow you to use TTL and HSS, and give you remote control of power, group and zoom. I would recommend looking at a Godox X2T-N or XPro-N; Adorama's exclusive Flashpoint R2 Pro II-N; or another Godox TTL Speedlite (like a TT350) as a trigger, not a Yongnuo RF-603 II. If you're really broke and in the U.S. and only want to pay $ 25 for a trigger, there's also the Flashpoint SPT transceiver, but it looks more like a Yongnuo RF-605. You will only have synchronization (fire) and group control.

web browser – flash vulnerabilities

What types of risks can I expose myself to by activating the flash in the browser?

Web developers or online game developers who can use these vulnerabilities to crash my computer or exploit it by downloading files to my computer without permission?

Or by making the browser more exploitable to hackers who use the same public network as me?