fisheye – How would one use filters with the “bulb”-like shape front element lenses?

fisheye – How would one use filters with the “bulb”-like shape front element lenses? – Photography Stack Exchange

lens – How to differentiate between a VR and VR II Nikkor lenses (e.g., 55-200 VR and 55-200 VRII)?

On the side, VR II lens has “II” in the lower line, after max aperture values and letter G – AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1:4-5.6GII ED. The letters “VR II” can also be read around front element – 55-200mm 1:4-5.6G ED VR II:

55-200 VR II front element

The earlier version has the side marking missing the II and no text around front element at all. Also, VR is a separate red marking rather than part of upper golden text row on side:

55-200 VR http://images.forum-auto.com/mesimages/368591/nikon-55-200-vr.jpg

Some early (prototype?) copies will even have the side text “Nikon DX SWM VR ED IF ∞-1.1m/3.61ft Ø 52” in white, not golden letters. No red VR marking on those:

55-200 VR with white text
(source: cashconverters.com.au)

lens – Lenses for Pentax K-X

I’m about to buy a Pentax K-x camera with a pentax 18-55 lense for 50 euros.

I also found a few lenses, quite cheap but I don’t know if they are comaptible and if they are not, what should I look for ?

The lenses :

  • Vivitar 70-150mm 3.8 for 8 euros

  • Sigma 70-210mm for 10 euros

  • Sigma zoom 35-70mm 2.8-4 and sigma zoom 80-200 4.5 multi coated for 30 euros

  • Makinon 200 mm 3.3 for 20 euros

Are they compatible with the K-X ? and which one would be better to buy ?

Thanks !

lens – How risky are 3rd party lenses?

But if you buy a 3rd party lens then theoretically it could stop working tomorrow.

Only if you try to use it with a camera model newer than the third party lens. If it worked with your camera when you first got it, it should continue to work with that camera. There’s really no additional risk that it will suddenly stop working with a camera with which it currently works. Where the compatibility issues come in is when the camera maker introduces newer camera models that weren’t available when the 3rd party lens company developed their lens.

That means that if you buy a 1st party lens, it’s guaranteed to work with your camera.

Not necessarily, even though the risk is certainly much, much lower. But it does occasionally happen with first party lenses. When Canon introduced the 7D Mark II there was an initial compatibility issue with AF at focal lengths of around 100-130mm with the EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS II. Canon issued a firmware update for the 7D Mark II a few weeks later that fixed the issue.

In reality, how common is it for a 3rd party lens to quit working due to an incompatibility? Is this a common problem or just a theoretical possibility? If your favourite 3rd party lens suddenly stops working, what can you do about it? Is the lens manufacturer going to care, or do you just have to toss the lens in the bin and go buy something else?

It seems you are assuming that a third party lens model can just spontaneously stop working with the same cameras with which it has previously worked. That is not the risk of buying a third party lens. I guess it’s possible a firmware update to the camera could theoretically cause issues with a third party lens that previously was fully functional, but I’ve never encountered such a situation. The issue is usually only seen when trying to use an existing third party lens with a newly introduced camera model that wasn’t available when the lens was being designed. Such lenses will continue to work with the cameras with which they previously worked.

Lens manufacturers, including third party makers, will vary with how much they stand behind and support their lenses. The two or three largest names in the third party lens market tend to support them very well. In the past firmware updates would often be made available but required a trip to a service center to be applied to the lens. Often these were offered at no or very little cost for a specified time period after issues were discovered and corrected through a firmware update.

Recently, though, Sigma and now Tamron have developed hardware docks and made them available to end users so that the firmware running in lenses can be updated by the owner without having to send the lens off to the manufacturer’s service facility. It’s as simple as downloading the updated firmware and using a USB dock to load it onto your lens.

lens – Buying lenses from Japan on eBay? Good or bad?

By buying from another country, you are effectively buying on the gray market (related: Is there a drawback in buying an imported (gray market) lens?). You will find it difficult to make use of a warranty or in some cases, even authorized repair shops will be hesitant to touch it.

You are also going to pay… what appears to be $27 for shopping in this referenced auction for a lens that is being sold for $50, for something that will end up closer to $80.

On the other hand, the used domestic market you will find it, well, much cheaper. The 28-80 Canon f/3.5-5.6 that you linked can be found at KEH in excellent condition for about $45 (the second edition of the lens is also in the same price range: KEH search: Canon 28-80) The estimate for shipping on this lens can be found… for me, its $12.

This ends up with something that is less expensive overall, I’ll get it sooner, from a known dealer (KEH is very good).

lens – Origin of the sound / noise made by some stabilized lenses?

The sound may be produced by some form of a permanent feedback loop to allow a movable lens element to “float” in the air, but does any one know what is, precisely, the origin of the sound? And why it is permanent on Fuji lenses with OIS?

Without power, the OIS element in Fuji lenses (and some others) is free floating. The OIS element isn’t “parked” and locked when the power is removed (unlike, say, read/write heads for spinning hard drives). Thus, the OIS element has to be held “rigidly” in its optically neutral position (non-stabilizing control) at all times when the camera is powered.

As with any system with active feedback control systems, the controller is still working, even if it was commanded to just stay at a commanded point. By analogy, a Harrier VTOL jet that is asked to just hover 100 ft. above the ground is still working its control systems. The controller is always trying to compensate for error inputs, such as gusts of wind that might move the jet laterally or change its altitude.

Functionally, the only difference between enabling and disabling OIS in these types of lenses is whether or not the feedback control system is trying to filter out (i.e., compensate for) motion frequencies around 20 Hz and lower. ST Microelectronics has an interesting white paper discussing OIS controller design and implementation, that covers this in more depth.

This controller has to be almost immediately responsive to movement, so the feedback controller is operating at much higher frequencies than just the 20 Hz (and below) that needs to be filtered. It’s this controlling frequency moving the OIS element that is the source of the noise. In essence, the OIS element is acting like a speaker cone — a thin, more-or-less planar surface moving to some degree back and forth (although it’s mostly just laterally) pushes air around. Because it’s controlled by electromagnet motors, the moving OIS element is also pushing back on the lens body itself. Some of the motion is in the audible range of human hearing, which is the buzzing sound you hear.

fungus – Should lenses be stored without their caps inside a dry cabinet?

From what I have learn, there a potential for lenses to get fungus when stored for a long time in a dark and humid area.

For this reason, it is recommended to store them in a dry cabinet that has some way to control humidity between 35% and 45%, and be translucent so that non direct sunlight can pass through.

I have seem lots of people store their lenses with the caps on, to prevent scratches when they bump into each other inside the box, but on the other side, this prevents the ambient light to penetrate the lenses.

So, what you think, should the lenses be stored in a dry cabinate with or without their caps?

dslr – Can I put different lenses with a lens adapter on a point and shoot?

No. The L830 does not have a filter thread, and no accessory tube with which to attach a filter to the front of the lens. Any fixed-lens P&S cannot swap lenses, but can only really take a filter in front of the lens. You can add filters that can add macro close-up capability, or act as teleconverters to increase or decrease the focal length of the lens, but nearly all of these add-on elements will decrease image quality–typically making the lens softer. Lens elements work best when they’re designed to work together.

And none of these will give you “more control on the focus and the depth of field”, since the main image-taking lens does not change. Depth of field control when it comes to gear, is based on the maximum aperture of the lens, and the sensor size in the camera, and these things won’t change. And focus control, again, comes with the lens–and even with dSLR and mirrorless lenses, you may not have as much control as you’d like for video, which is why so many “HDSLR” shooters adapt manual-focus lenses for their cameras. There’s also the fact that quite a few still-image lenses exhibit focus “breathing” (i.e., a change in focal length as the focus point changes) which make them less suitable for video.

To change lenses, you need a camera with an interchangeable lens mount, not a fixed-lens camera. But. These types of cameras are radically more expensive than a fixed-lens P&S camera like your Nikon Coolpix, because you not only have to buy the camera, but also the lenses, and a single lens can easily oustrip the cost of the camera. However, since most of these cameras also have larger sensors than the 1/2.3″ (i.e., 5x crop) one in your L830, you will gain more DoF control, and some of the lenses will let you have more fine-grained manual control over focus.

lens – Does the QX1 support passive lenses?

I’m just starting to get into photography and got a used Sony QX1 and the 16-50 kit lens.
Now I’m looking to extend my glass collection.

I’ve read that to use lenses without any electrical connections, the camera needs to support “release without lens”.

A quick search found this at the Sony community

When I first heard about the QX1 I thought it would be great if I could use it with ALL of my lenses (including the adapted ones), especially my Zeiss ZM manual lenses.

Unfortunately as I (finally) found out, the QX1 does not support the Release without Lens feature that the NEX cameras use – thus allowing the shutter to operate without there being an electronically mounted E mount lens attached.

So that would say No.

But – if I remove the kit lens from my QX1 and press the shutter button, it does click and seems to take a picture.

Does anyone of you definitely know whether it works, before I invest a lot of money into manual focus lenses?

lens – Which lenses should be included in a travel photography kit?

I literally just got back (a few days ago) from spending a few weeks in Europe with my 7D, 10-22mm, 17-55mm, 50mm and 55-250mm. I too have little interest in portraits, and took a lot of landscapes, architecture and “detail” shots on my trip. And I left my tripod at home… so perhaps some of my experiences/thoughts will be useful…

I carried the 3 zooms around with me most of the time, occasionally taking the 50mm out, and if I wasn’t really feeling up to carrying it all, I’d just take the 17-55. I remember at the time thinking the 10-22 and 55-250 were by far the most useful lenses, though oddly the proportion of all photos from each lens was:

  • EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM — 44%
  • EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 — 28%
  • EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM — 24%
  • EF 50mm f/1.8 II — 4%

I’ve yet to sort through my photos, so if I remember I’ll come back and update the percentages based on the photos I actually liked (; I’m quite sure the best will be from the wide and telephoto.

I remember thinking often that I’d have probably been happier with the 10-22mm and a better telephoto (70-200 f/4L or 70-300L), and just a 30mm in the middle (for weight reasons). The other thing I wanted was a second body… As much as I like my 17-55 (especially if it’s the only lens I’m carrying), I have a feeling that two bodies, one with a good wide angle, the other a good telephoto, and a ‘normal’ (30mm for crop) prime in the bag, just in case, is all one really needs… but it’s hard to justify a second body just to be switching lenses less frequently! But for travel or events, when lots of things are new and unexpected, it seems to make sense.

I found the 10-22mm great for the big old churches, even though the 17-55 has a wider aperture, 17mm just didn’t cut it in some of them. I think a similar lens that goes as wide as 11 or 12mm would also be fine (e.g. Sigma/Tamron/Tokina offerings), but the 17 or 18mm wide end of ‘normal zooms’ wouldn’t cut it.

The tele was great for odd details, especially interesting people (I’m not one to approach people to take a photo), a bit of wildlife and the like. Mine’s the kit one I got with my 450D a few years back which I’m saving up to replace with something with a wider aperture, but even so it was very useful and sufficient quality at f/8 to f/16.

The 17-55 was most useful when I didn’t want to carry a lot, since its kind of wide and kind of long, so I’d probably still take it again, (even if I had a 30mm prime), unless I was expecting to have all my gear with me at all times, and wouldn’t be comfortable leaving it behind somewhere on shorter day trips.

So if you want to stick to 3 lenses, I’d suggest an ultra-wide like the Canon 10-22mm, a good tele zoom like the 70-200 f/4L IS USM (or 70-300 if you like wildlife which I usually find I’m wanting more than 250 for) and a 30mm prime like the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 HSM.

Edit: I guess if you’re aiming for highest quality, I should be suggesting the 35mm f/1.4L instead of the Sigma.

Edit 2: In hindsight, with a bigger gap than I had between the wide and zoom (i.e. 22 to 70mm instead of just 22 to 55mm, you may be wanting more than just a 30mm or 35mm prime in the middle there… especially if you don’t already have a 30mm and use it regularly enough to be comfortable with it!)

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