I have a good Nikon d3300 condition which started randomly giving me the error "This card is not formatted". Then when I try to format it says "the option is not available in the current settings or in the current state of the camera". I checked and the card is not manually locked. I am not aware of any damage. Help me! I have wedding photos from my girls wedding on this card!
When I use my AF-s 28mm 1.8 with my Z6 in video mode, I get a group that slowly follows the screen of different exposures.
the group appears in all the videos that I film.
There is no problem when I take pictures.
everyone knows what it could be or have solutions
In a word1AGPS (Assisted / Augmented GPS) is a method to help a GPS device determine the position of GPS satellites by providing pre-calculated data. The data itself changes over time due to the fact that the satellites themselves change position over time in a way that cannot be expressed by a simple formula directly implemented by the ; GPS device itself. This explains why the data expires over time.
Instead of using precalculated data, the GPS device can receive equivalent data from the satellites themselves. However, this data is only transmitted at around 50 bits / second, or around 6 characters per second. Thus, without AGPS data, the GPS device must accumulate enough data from visible satellites to "fill in the blanks" when calculating a GPS position – which is time consuming.
If you turn off a GPS device and then turn it back on after moving it a long distance (or keep it in the same place but turned off for a significant time), the required data must be updated. Providing AGPS data minimizes the time required to acquire a GPS position.
I just downloaded an ee file (size 130k) from Nikon and I looked at it. It seems to be binary data. Given the size and format, I doubt it would be worth watching it on a computer.
- I'm not a GPS engineer and I haven't played it on TV or stayed at a specific hotel brand last night. This is just my general understanding of how things work.
Please check this cropping at 100% of a night sky.
I took this photo on a Nikon D750 with a Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4 D @ f / 8, ISO 100, RAW format.
I had already noticed this kind of noise / hot pixels (all these little RGB dots) on much longer photos, above 10 to 15 minutes. But this blow was only 269 seconds (less than 5 minutes).
Is this a sign that my sensor is slowly dying? And can I do anything to prevent this from happening outside of activating long exposure noise reduction?
I am trying to use my Nikon D5600 as a webcam for PC, but when I connect the camera to the PC (Windows 10) with a micro USB cable (to be clear, the same as I did) ; usually use to transfer photos from camera to PC), and I try to open Windows Camera, this message appears:
We can't find your camera (bla bla) If you need it, here's the error code: 0xA00F4244
Does anyone know why this is happening?
You cannot (should not) produce a crude from a jpeg. Theoretically, this would be possible because the compressed NEF is based on a TIFF container and a "large" JPEG / JFIF IIRC variant.
And all is not lost because, after having organized this kind of competitions, I can say that you can always participate according to the type of competition and why they want raw files …
The requirement may be there because the contest is for unmodified images – this is common with photojournalism contests where only general or minor changes are allowed.
More likely, the requirement is there to discourage cheating, which has plagued the amateur / competitive world. Assuming everyone takes raw photos (and some people don't – and no, I never understood that), organizers often allow you to provide the original unmodified jpeg on which you based input because actual inputs are usually requested at a specific pixel size.
Some organizations post such requirements under the guise of “ quality '', although this is mainly false because (even now) few devices are able to go beyond 8 bits per channel. From my observation, it is mainly to keep "beginners" at bay. From experience, I have seen many events request a 24/48 bit lossless RGB TIFF for display then on a horrible DLP projector that does not have the tonal response to make a calibration worthy of. # 39; be tempted (if they had attempted one, which is much less likely than you might think).
In any case, even if the rules are listed, they are generally aimed at maintaining fairness and will have a reservation that the organizers have discretionary power over submissions. You must contact the organizers and explain to them that your original has been shot in JPEG as they can always allow you to enter.
And good luck in the competition!
The zoom ring on my Nikon D5300 does not rotate and I get an error on the camera stating that the lens is not attached. I have tried everything. I was zooming in for a photo and when I tried to zoom out, the zoom ring did not move. Help me, please.
I bought some old lenses (all the lenses mounted on the M42 lens). I decided to try to convert them to work on a Nikon SLR, infinite focus and all. I succeeded on my first lens (first photos), replacing the mounting mechanism with a 3D print, it works perfectly. It’s awesome!
However, I also have another lens, which I have high hopes for as it focuses beyond the infinite when held by my D3200. The problem is, however, that I cannot find a way to disassemble the mounting plate to replace it. I tried to unscrew the side screws, this revealed a few Philips head screws around the opening ring, but I don't know if it is for the mounting plate or not. Anyone who has experience with these? Or is he able to tell me if these screws are actually for the mounting plate?
Thanks in advance!
I use a Nikon D5200 with a Tamron 100-400 zoom for animal photography. This is admittedly a budgetary configuration (in a certain sense of the term "budget"), so I don't expect astonishing results. I'm also not a skilled photographer, and I learned pretty much by reading the Internet and YouTube (not ideal, I know). Recently, I decided to rent another Nikon camera for an expedition (which was eventually canceled due to COVID-19).
I decided to rent a mirrorless Nikon Z6 to see how I would like a mirrorless camera, and try a full frame sensor, and just get a newer sensor and body and see how the quality compares, using the same Tamron lens.
I made a lot of mistakes using the new body, but ultimately I'm still stumped. The photos display the same annoying glow that I saw with the old body. I don't know what caused it, but it looks like I can narrow it down to "operator" or lens errors.
In the image above, a strongly cropped section of a photo of a bird, you can see the glow. It appears similarly when using one or the other body. This is rotated at 400 mm, ISO 320 f / 6.3, 1/500 sec.
I hold the camera most of the time because I just can't use a tripod for most of these pictures (birds are in a tree, jump, etc.)
Anyone have any suggestions on what I should do here? Should I use faster shutter speed and higher ISO sensitivity? I tried and found that I was getting a lot of noise, but maybe the new sensors can handle it? I would be willing to spend a few $$ on a book or read any references people might recommend.
I recommend the Loctite Plastics Bonding system for this type of “rubbery” plastic. I haven't used it specifically on a Nikon grip, but it works great in similar apps.
The problem with regular "5 min" Gorilla epoxy and glue is that they are rigid and not flexible, so for rubber items, the glue cannot adhere. Gorilla Glue has an additional problem in that it relates to porous surfaces, requires activation with water (not in plastics) and expands upon hardening, so it will probably not be original if you use Gorilla Glue.
What is different about this stuff is that it has a little to give it, so in apps where you need something that is not as rigid as Ordinary epoxy, here is what to get: