amateur – Use an alias for your photography

Here's the deal with branding and shooting adult or nsfw subjects …

If you like to do bodyscapes occasionally, but don't make money out of them, don't label yourself as this type of shooter – keep it to yourself. If you come to have to showcase some work, do it completely regardless of your brand that is making money.

If you will make money out of it, like the many boudoir shooters, then create a brand specially for it. Again, don't mix that with your safe brand to make money.

If you plan to manage a studio of multiple photographers, you need a trademark. If it is you, dedicate your name to the brand of bread and butter (usually that of SFW, at least for most people). Personally, I would find a trade name for the stuff for adults so that you have YOU as a brand for weddings, sports, family, portraits, etc. and a trade mark for the boudoir, modeling, etc.

In fact, the target markets generally only overlap in one direction. For example, you can get a customer looking for boudoir photos as a wedding gift, who may then love your portrait work and want to hire you for family photos on the go.

However, when Ms. Suburbia buys family shooters, she doesn't want to stumble upon your adult-themed work. If you think there is a cross-sell opportunity here, this is something that you present in person.

Think of it this way: your online presence is like a version of you that sits on a fast date. If a model sits in front of you looking for modeling photos, it doesn't hurt to lead with adult themed photos. But if you share it with your average customer, you will lose them.

Teenager's Camera – Photography Stack Exchange

My daughter, who will soon be 14, likes to take pictures of nature and things around her. I would like to get him a good first camera which is not too expensive and which may come with different lenses and accessories. Her father and I are divorced and I'm going to ask him to help her (it's a birthday present) but I'm not sure he will. Any suggestion? Her take on the photos she took is, in my opinion, good enough for a 13 year old child.

Thank you.

event photography – Any advice for photographing a political rally?

I'm soon photographing a gathering of Bernie Sanders for my school journal and wondering if I should do something to prepare. I'm comfortable shooting in crowds, even if they are rowdy, but I'm worried about having a clear view of him. Should I try to arrive earlier (the doors open 2 hours before the start of the event) or request some sort of press pass? I have a press number from my school newspaper, but I don't know where it will take me.

Here is the equipment I plan to bring:

  • Nikon D750
  • Nikkor 24-120mm f / 4
  • Nikkor 70-300mm f / 4.5-5.6
  • Nikkor 50mm f / 1.4

software – Ideas for a social media photography platform

My name is Stefan and I am 20 years old, I live in the Netherlands and my passion is photography and web development.

For the past few weeks, I have been thinking about a website that I would like to develop. My idea was to create a social media platform / blog just for people who love photography. I want people to have a platform where they can publish their work, see the work of other people and read articles on the latest trends / developments in the world of photography, etc.

As this is still just an idea, I would love to hear your opinions on what you would like to see on a platform like this.

I would love to hear some ideas!

terminology – How to explain the focal distance to someone who is not a photography lover?

Without going into the formulas, I think the easiest way to visually explain the focal length is to use an empty 35mm slide as a framing guide. (Note that over time, less and less people know what a 35mm film slide looks like, so the visual guide is less apt …)

First of all, you need to explain that focal length is a property of the lens. Just like a milk jug can hold 1 or 1/2 gallon or 1 liter, or a certain bottle of water can hold 1/2 liter, so any particular lens has a particular focal length. (In this analogy, zoom lenses are like collapsible water bottles, which have a certain minimum volume when folded down and a maximum volume when folded down). Just like volume is a property of this particular bottle, the focal length is therefore a property of this particular lens.

(Note: I didn't have to use a bottle volume for analogy. I could have used the height of the bottle as easily as the property. It doesn’t matter – it’s just an analogy)

Extending the analogy, it doesn't matter if the bottle is full, half full or empty – the capacity of the bottle is fixed. Just like with a lens: it doesn't matter if it's focused far or near – the focal distance of the lens is unchanged.

Related: What is the focal length and how does it affect my photos?

Now back to the cameras. Different focal lenses modify field of view when mounted on a certain camera. Conversely, when mounting different cameras (with different film or sensor sizes) on a particular lens, the field of vision is also affected.

Here is where the 35mm slide comes in when explaining to people: for a lens with a focal length ƒ (say, 50mm), if it was mounted on a film camera 35 mm (those that most people using film cameras know), then you will get the same field of vision just as you hold a 35mm film slide at a distance of ƒ (50mm, or about 2 inches, in this case) in front of your eye.

Another example: early in the evening of a full moon night, when the moon is low on the horizon and it looks impressive, if you want to capture it in full glory, imagine holding a empty 35 mm slide at arm's length (about 3 feet or or about 900 mm) to frame the moon. When framed with a slide holder at this distance, the moon will fill about 1/3 the height of the frame. So that gives you an idea of ​​the viewing angle of a 900mm lens on a 35mm film camera (or a 35mm full frame DSLR).

Related: What Focal Length Lens Do I Need To Photograph The Moon?

Now if you are talking about a camera with a smaller sensor, such as a 1.5 or 1.6 APS-C crop sensor on entry level DSLRs and mid-range, a 35mm film slide holder no longer works. The framing tool should be 1.5 times smaller. In this case, it would be 24 x 16 mm. Using the smaller "1.5 APS-C slider holder" as a framing guide, you can place it at the focal distance of the lens ƒ from your eye to judge the size of the field of view .

Related: Does My Crop Sensor Camera Really Turn My Lenses Into A Longer Focal Length?

This is the simplest way I have found to explain and visualize the focal distance, without delving into math with the formula of the thin lens and the formula of the angle pinhole vision.

long exposure – gphoto2 – interval photography with bulb mode

I discovered gphoto2 a few days ago and delved into the documentation but couldn't resolve my problem.

I would like to create a star trail with my Nikon D3400. The camera should take a sequence of bulb shots (exposure time 2 minutes). Ideally, there should be as little free time as possible between two different shots. I would also save the images to the camera's SD card.

The command I have collected so far is as follows:

gphoto2 -F 30 -I 1 --set-config bulb=1 --wait-event=120s --set-config capturetarget=1


  • F 30 sets the number of images to take.
  • -I 1 sets the interval to 1 s.
  • --set-config bulb=1 activate bulb mode.
  • --wait-event=120s shoot for 2 minutes.
  • --set-config capturetarget=1 save the image to the camera SD card.

Unfortunately, it only takes one hit, then it comes out without giving any errors.

What am i doing wrong? Is it even possible to take multiple photos when using Bulb mode? Are there other approaches to reach my goal with a PC connected to the camera?

basics of photography – Amateurs | Start with a "Random / Daily Photo" gallery

Decide what you sell and build your business and your marketing around that

If you haven't yet learned about your market and how you hope to do business with your photos, you will be hard pressed to find helpful answers to the question of how / where to publish your photos. .

The first step will likely be to explore how your photography services can integrate and strengthen your existing business practices, or seek to break your existing business into something completely different. [If your current model has customers and income, aiming to upset everything is "questionable" at best]

After establishing more details on what you sell, then it's time to aggressively slaughter and revise your working body.

Very few people are likely to want to see your "progress" or the history of your old work if it offers no reflection on what you are currently going to do for them or offer. Getting feedback from someone you trust not to praise your back for every last picture is helpful at this point.

Define the type of images you want to market, then find [and multiply] your best examples.

At this point, you can start looking for accommodation options. But then it comes back to the previous section: what do you offer and how does it relate to your current business offerings?

How do I get the crisp, clean look commonly found in stock portrait photography?

In my opinion, we have 2 steps here.

The second step: post-processing

I start with the second. Post-processing. It is not at all heavy.

I am not using lightroom on this example, but the same is true for different applications. Play with the levels.

1) I have argued the gamma (which is a very specific type of curve) around 2-2.3. (probably in my example it's a bit of an exaggeration)

Adjust the black level accordingly.

2) Crop the white point. This will bring additional brightness but will also saturate your photo.

3) You can saturate your photo a little more. (I did not saturate them in this case, because I show the difference on the histogram when applying steps 1 and 2)

And the first step

Take a good photo from the start!

In this example, the first photo has a nice diffuse light and in the second you can see that they used a hard flash which casts bad shadows. The bright look can be achieved, but a pleasant diffused light makes all the difference.

Some tips for taking pictures

  • Take advantage of the existing ambient light when possible. Large windows specially.

  • Bounce your flashes on white cells or walls. Note that I mentioned the flashes. For a photo in the studio (or on site), you normally need several photos depending on the type of photo you need, close-ups or wide shots.

  • Light up your subjects, but also your backgrounds. Depending on the situation, this can be difficult, because sometimes on a wide background, you can see hot spots everywhere. This is why you should make the most of the ambient light.

  • Use a wide aperture lens. These photos normally have a shallow DOF, because of the nice bokeh, but also because … they use beautiful ambient light. If you use flashes, it helps because you can place your flashes further and make a more uniform light.

What is the best way to learn the basics of photography?

There are some great online resources out there, but the free resources tend to be for someone who goes beyond the basics. For a systematic start approach, I think a few basic books are much better structured and cover all the basics from the start.

Peterson & # 39; s Understanding the exposure is probably the most recommended photography book. It covers all the basics, then some regarding exposure. The latest edition costs less than $ 20 and the second edition can be purchased from for just over $ 10, shipping included. It is well worth the investment.

Freeman & # 39; s The eye of the photographer covers composition as well as anyone. It is also available very reasonably on

These two as well as other good books are mentioned in What are the first photography books that someone should read?

The best online resources, free and paid, are described in What are the best photo classes online?

sensor – Color coordinates – Photography Stack Exchange

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