black and white – How do I remove yellow discolouration from a scanned B&W photo in Photoshop?

I have a b&w photo that seems to have been impacted by sunlight. It’s not an overall yellow cast, but lots of imperfections. I have photoshop, and although not an experienced user, I have some knowledge of the basics such as healing brush. I get a little lost on layers and stuff. Could someone point me in the right direction of the best steps / YouTube videos etc to try and get back to b&w. Ideally I’d like to print it again. It’s my late father in the picture and it’s one of my favourites.image attached for reference. Many thanks

photo editing – How to move multiple layers to another tab in Photoshop

I usually don’t work with photography, so I apologize if my question sounds stupid, but I am doing a small project, and I need help with Photoshop and layers.

I have one image with multiple different layers and groups. I would like to save everything as one and move it to a new tab in the same Photoshop window. Is it possible to use the project with layers in the second tab as a whole, but if I modify something on the original tab, that the copied “image” on the second tab is automatically updated, so I don’t need to save the first image every time and manually import it to the second one? Or is there any other solution for this?

photo editing – How to move mutluple layers to another tab in Photoshop

I usually don’t work with photography, so I apologize if my question sounds stupid, but I am doing a small project, and I need help with Photoshop and layers.

I have one image with multiple different layers and groups. I would like to save everything as one and move it to a new tab in the same Photoshop window. Is it possible to use the project with layers in the second tab as a whole, but if I modify something on the original tab, that the copied “image” on the second tab is automatically updated, so I don’t need to save the first image every time and manually import it to the second one? Or is there any other solution for this?

Thanks in advance

photoshop – Creating a more natural look for watch photography using a Light Box!

Hello I am fairly new to photography in general and my current set up for taking pictures of my watches is a light box I bought off amazon. I crank the wattage all the way and after I take my photos the watch doesn’t look natural as the professionals. I know the issue is with the lighting as I just use the light box light but not sure how to go about this. My goal is to give my watches a more natural look throughout the entire watch to show all the scratches. I also have an issue with the reflectiveness of the crystal. I can literally see myself in the crystal of the watch trying to take the photo when I shoot straight on. So I tried taping a white sheet a paper around the lense which helps with diffusing the light onto the subject but creates a black dot as shown below. Any help would be great appreciated.
I tried using photoshop but it takes too long to edit and post the watch since I have dozens of watches to get through and post on ebay. THE BLUE PHOTOS IS MORE OF THE GOAL AND NOT MY PHOTOS, THE OTHER TWO PHOTOS ARE MINE.
Here is my camera settings: 1/50, F10, iso 100Here is a photo of the band which is too dark and doesnt show the imperfections at allhere is the goal as an example, looks more natural and you can see all the imperfections
enter image description here
Here is the reflectiveness issue

Looking for a good workflow to deal with large file sizes after Photoshop

I recently upgraded to a Nikon D850 which produces RAW files on the order of 37MB in size. I take these as DNG files into Lightroom. When I edit an image in Photoshop and then return to Lightroom with the image saved as either 16 bit lossless compressed TIFF or PSD (all layers flattened into a single layer), I wind up with a file size that exceeds 200MB. I do understand why this is happening, and if it is an image that is of really fine quality that I might want to someday print or do more with than post on the internet, then the file size is ok with me.

The problem is that I travel a lot to dance festivals and take lots and lots of social dance photos, perhaps 500 or more images in a weekend. And I will wind up retouching a lot of these images in Photoshop for one reason or another. In most cases the images are only posted as exported JPEG on the internet, e.g. on Facebook or Flickr, and so it seems to be a massive overkill to have the 200+ MB TIFF files lying around. On the other hand, I would like to retain all the retouching that I did in Photoshop, just in case I decide to do some more changes on the images later.

Can anyone who also has run into this same situation recommend a good workflow so that I can avoid spending my life savings on external memory storage? Is there an alternative file format after Photoshop that can be used? Should I save the Photoshop files as high quality JPEG instead? Or go down to 8 bit? Or does it make sense just to resize in Photoshop from the huge image sizes, say by 50% or 25%? What do people normally do in this situation?

Thanks for any good tips!

color management – What Conversion Engine works best in Photoshop? ACE or ICM

Adobe ACE v Microsoft ICM: Bakeoff

Adobe’s Windows Photoshop offers two conversion engines for converting colors. These are used when converting between different RGB colorspaces as well as doing conversion required for displaying using the monitor’s ICC profile.

Are there significant differences between these? Does one do a more accurate job than the other and, if so, are the differences visually significant?

One specific measure of accuracy is self consistency. For instance if one has an image in sRGB and converts it to ProPhoto RGB then back to sRGB again the results should be quite close since sRGB’s gamut is smaller in every dimension than ProPhoto.

So, if we consider a set of all possible, 8 bits per channel, RGB colors and convert them to ProPhoto RGB then back to sRGB what is the maximum error produced by the Microsoft ICM Engine v. the Adobe ACE Engine?

If there are errors, how large are they and are they visible?

color management – Converting from sRGB to ProPhoto & vice versa on Photoshop (with a 120% sRGB screen)

Img 1
This is just academic:
I want to find a cyclical way to convert from sRGB to ProPhoto and vice-versa on Photoshop.

  1. I notice that no matter that the images from Is Your Browser Color-Managed? looks different inside of PS…

  2. the browser renders both identical and that’s the goal of the ICC profile, I know.

  3. But, when I try to change the color profile of the proPhoto one to sRGB on PS (with “convert to profile…” and “assign profile”) that doesn’t work and actually looks the same on PS and of course renders different on the browser.

  4. And with the same resultant image I tried to convert it back to proPhoto and that doesn’t work either.

  5. There is a cyclical way to convert a image between sRGB and Prophoto and making them to looks the same on the browser?

Edit

To consider:

  • My main display is a Huion Kamvas 13 with 120% sRGB according to the manufacturer.
  • Because of that the image on the ProPhoto space won’t look the same as the sRGB one without proofing colors.
  • The original image tagged with sRGB doesn’t have a ICC profile, but by default the browser will assume it as sRGB. That’s useless with mostly all the screens (100%-sRGB) but for my 120%-sRGB screen is useful because thanks to that my browser won’t over-saturate the image. Not the same with Photoshop, actually, PS will over-saturate the non-profiled image.

enter image description here
Regardless of my browser shows them the same, Photoshop show them different without proofing colors and also different with sRGB internet proofing colors. They only look the same if I only set the unprofiled one (sRGB tagged) to sRGB proof colors.
enter image description here

  • For the unmanaged image with no proof colors I guess that PS stretch the RGB colors (oversaturating them) to my larger 120% sRGB space right?
  • For the ProPhoto with sRGB proof colors I guess is like to have double conversion first from ProPhoto to 120% sRGB and than to 100% rgb. That implies that in a 100% rgb that image will look right Isn’t it?

After a kind of laboratory a realized (I think) that my 120% sRGB screen (or driver) tells to PS to operates the transformations with that space when converting color profiles as you can see in the “sRGB Converted to ProPhoto” (1st row, 2nd col) resulting in wrong colors. But if I tell to PS that the unmanaged image is on the sRGB space assigning it a sRGB profile before I convert to the ProPhoto space, PS do the works correcly
enter image description here

Now I want to go back from ProPhoto to sRGB
enter image description here
Here you an see that if I just assign a sRGB profile to the ProPhoto (sRGB, sRGB assigned, Converted to ProPhoto) image the colors get borked as @Tetsujin mentioned. But if a converted to sRGB and then remove the color management I’m able to get back a image virtualy equal to the original sRGB one

You will be able to calculate the RGB values that PS calculates with this calculator
http://www.brucelindbloom.com/index.html?ColorCalculator.html
First go from sRGB to XYZ and then to ProPhoto (white D65, gamma 1.8)

Then for the example of Steven Kersting sRGB(0,255,25) is XYZ(0.359330, 0.715854, 0.128430) and ProPhoto(138.0695, 236.5775 80.7067), but with a 8-bit depth with dont have that precision, actually we dont have decimales
so ProPhoto(138, 236, 80) is XYZ(0.358508, 0.712998, 0.126304) and sRGB(9.1773, 254.4782, 21.9759)

Proposal of answer

So for my question

There is a cyclical way to convert a image between sRGB and Prophoto
and making them to looks the same on the browser?

The answer has three big considerations: What is my native color space (the one that is told by the video driver to the PS), Is the source image color unmanaged or does it have color profiles assigned? and What is the format and color depth of the image?. If my native color space is 100% sRGB I could go straight converting profiles. But if I have another color space than 100% sRGB like me with 120% sRGB then a have to pay attention if the source image has a color profile, if it don’t have one I must assign a color profile before the conversion. Now if I have a 8-bit depth LQ JPEG we’ll be able to see some color distorsion in the cyclical conversions, but if I have a 16-bit uncompressed TIFF I may not see significant differences. In the image below you can see that i managed to replicate the conversion on my 120% sRGB workspace (the bottom-right one).
enter image description here

Consedirations

You will be able to calculate the RGB values that PS calculates with this calculator. First go from sRGB to XYZ and then to ProPhoto (white D65, gamma 1.8). Then for the example of @Steven Kersting, sRGB(0,255,25) is XYZ(0.359330, 0.715854, 0.128430) and ProPhoto(138.0695, 236.5775 80.7067), but with a 8-bit depth we dont have that precision, actually, we don’t have decimals, so for PS to get back, it will be ProPhoto(138, 236, 80) that is XYZ(0.358508, 0.712998, 0.126304) and is sRGB(9.1773, 254.4782, 21.9759) and of course this will be rounded. But this scenario is idealistic because as mention @doug if you set the dither option you will have some kind variation to maintain the average and reducing the error, and even better results if you have a 16-bit color depth

photoshop – Is changing of width and height of smart object image by using free transform OR resizing of the image the same things?

I’m not very good in Photoshop tools, can someone help me to understand;

Is changing of width and height of smart object image by using free transform, OR resizing the image, the same thing?

If I change the width and height of smart object image with free transform in Photoshop will it automatically rebuild the image with a new number of pixels just like if I resize the image with the resize image function in Photoshop?

photoshop – Is changing of width and height of smart object image by using free transform and resizing of the image is the same things?

I’m not very good in Photoshop tools, so can someone help me to find out, is changing of width and height of smart object image, by using free transform, and resizing of the image is the same things?
So, if I change the width and height of smart object image with free transform in Photoshop, will it automatically rebuild the image, with a new number of pixels, just like if I will resize this image with resize image function in Photoshop?

photo editing – Is changing the width and height of smart object image using free transform in Photoshop and resizing of the image is the same?

I’m not very good in Photoshop tools, so can someone help me to find out, is the changing of width and height of smart object image with free transform and resizing of the image in is the same?
So, if I changing the width and height of Smart Object image with free transform in Photoshop, will it automatically rebuild the image with new number of pixels, just like if I will resizing it with resize image functions in Photoshop?