equipment recommendation – How do I photograph large appliances with glass doors for product showcasing?

In a reflective surface, the reflections are of the surrounding area.

1. The bigger the object the bigger space you need

So, in your case, you need a really big space clean, let’s say painted on white, like a photo studio.

Look how humungous and clean a photo studio can be. I think you need about the space to fit two or three cars.

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A 90° corner could work so you only need to fix two walls. A flat surface, not an industrial brick. You can put white ceramic mosaics in that zone.

2. Put the furniture in an angle

So you reflect what is on the side of the furniture, not what is behind you.

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If you use a wide lens, the elements that are reflected will appear smaller, which is not good because you need a bigger wall, so try to use a longer focal length and step back.

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3. You could “fake” a big room

Using big pieces of white fabric, 1.5 m width and like 2-10 m long. Use stretchy material like Lycra, a tripod, multiple shots, and 2-4 assistants.

Take two large rigid metal tubes aluminum or steel. Fix the fabric and use them as a big banner.

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Put the camera on a tripod, frame the product, concentrate the effort in protecting the reflection of one zone, let’s say the reflection of one door. Take one photo. And DO NOT MOVE THE CAMERA.

Protect the reflection on another door, and take another photo. Keep doing this. Until you have all the faces of the product taken.

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Use some more as a background.

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Composite the images in Photoshop or Gimp. Add more background later, focus only on the reflections and the immediate stuff behind the product.

4. Or as your company constructs metal frames

Make some big metal panels that can be covered with the stretchy cloth to have a portable studio room.

5. Make a 3D model of them

The shapes are pretty simple… you could model them quite easily.

Important note

Product photography is an art in itself. We are not focusing for now on how to properly lit the product, only to improve to some extent the resulting image.

If you want to push this to the next level we need to think in terms of light sources, which will turn some of your white fabric into light sources themselves, but that will not only complicate things for you, but it will take some years of expertise.

Photographing even small reflective objects are some of the trickiest things to photograph. You probably need to hire a photographer to have great images.

Hosting recommendation for internet speed test website


I want to create an internet speed test website like Every user on this website is able to select a nearby server to test their internet speed from.

But how does this work for the hosting? Do you really need to set up a VPS (or other?) in each location you want a test server?

Isn’t there a more easy (hosting) solution to accomplish this?

equipment recommendation – What camera should I buy for a Photography College student?

My younger sister is going to college to study photography, and I want to surprise her with a camera this holidays.

Just don’t. This is not a matter of warming up somebody for a hobby. She will have very specific needs for specific gear and will get instructions for what she should be getting. This is like “my brother is going into professional cycling and I thought I’d surprise him with a bike”.

There just is no way that some people on the Internet will know better than her educators what kind of stuff she should be getting. And even they did, she’d not get credit for ignoring her educators’ proposals.

And she’d need to balance between being polite and sabotaging her education.

A gift certificate already sounds like a better idea, but it may be that she’d be best off putting down a bunch of cash at some specific place giving student credits, so if you don’t tie your support to a specific camera shop, you are likely being most flexible in helping her shoulder the costs of her first steps.

theming – Theme recommendation for webform on mobile phone

I am aware that webforms can be themed with .tpl work. I am hoping for a “non-programming” alternative to a very narrow issue. I stuck with Bartik early on and switched to Responsive Bartik about a year ago. It does everything I need with one exception. A webform with Responsive Bartik renders poorly on Android. Specifically, input textfields are longer than they should be. Setting the max length of the webform component doesn’t have any effect.

My hope is that someone in this forum has experience using webform with a different responsive theme that, out of the box, handles Android well enough. Preferably a simple theme, that was the appeal of staying w. Bartik.

Camera recommendation – Photography Stack Exchange

What pictures does you kid like to take? For most people, phone photography is to capture the moment. The great thing is you always have your phone. Having a camera is useless unless you decide to carry it. That implies that you are interested in pictures you can’t get with your phone, so you need something else to get them and you are willing to go to the work to get them.

I am interested in photographing birds for a shot good enough for ID. They are small and far away, so a long lens is extremely valuable. I carry a Nikon P900 for its effective 2000mm lens. When my first one broke, I surveyed the market and bought another. It is not the camera for everybody, but it suits my needs. What pictures does your kid want to take that a phone cannot do?

shared hosting recommendation

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color – film recommendation for Mamiya 645 AFD, landscapes

I recently bought a Mamiya 645 AFD with 80mm ƒ / 2.8 and 45mm ƒ / 2.8 lenses and I can't wait to dip my toes in the medium format (only pinkies could fit in my current digital crop sensor).

Are there any general rules that I should know when it comes to choosing a movie? I mainly photograph landscapes and am used to the Fuji provia look of my X-T2 and Lightroom or Capture One editing workflow. However, the green tones still give me a headache.

I hope things will be very different with the film. I intend to have them developed and digitized in high resolution Tiff by a professional laboratory (advice on choosing a good one?). From editing videos that I’ve seen online, color rendering can be quite variable depending on the lab, so I expect to have to play and go through a few iterations before I’m comfortable and confident with the outing.

My main question at this point is: what factors should I take into account when choosing the film? I see different brands for sale because they are expired; Is it generally a risky business to avoid for beginners like me? (the low price is attractive, but less if we consider the development + the general costs of digitization, if the analyzes turn out to be horrible).

Availability and price will definitely be an issue, but other than fof this, are there any well known color rendering factors that i can look for? A comparison site to display side by side the characteristics / particulars of color rendering of the various current brands?

By the way, I converted an old Fuji X-pro1 to infrared and I really appreciate the look of infrared black and white photography. I think this is also something that can be done with this new Mamiya and a suitable film (black and white would be my preference) – any advice on this would also be appreciated!

equipment recommendation – An older Canon AT-1, are there any special cleaning kits or products recommended?

Generally speaking, older camera housings were made of metal and tend to withstand much more abuse than their modern counterparts (mostly plastic). Older glasses, however, have coatings that are often softer than modern glasses, and care must be taken not to scratch them.

The Canon AT-1, however, is a derivative of the Canon AE-1, which has a plastic top plate despite its metallic appearance. I would try to avoid using strong solvents like isopropyl alcohol or naphtha (lighter fluid) which are generally recommended for cleaning metallic bodies. The wet wipes they sell for the purpose of cleaning smartphones and screens should be a good option. You can also use them to clean the outside of the lens housing (but not the lens surfaces, see below). For extremely stubborn stains, try a small amount of alcohol on a cotton swab; for corrosion, a small amount of vinegar. (Anecdotal evidence: I used naphtha and vinegar on the body of Minolta XD series cameras, which I believe have a similar metallic plastic top plate, with no ill effects. But I can't not guarantee that Canon materials are exactly the same. Emptor.)

To clean the lenses and the interior of the camera, you will need the following:

  • A lens blower. This is extremely useful – I would say essential – for blowing small particles on the surfaces of the lens and also from inside the camera.
  • A lens cleaning cloth. It is best to use cloths specially designed to clean the lenses (or glasses). These are usually of a very fine synthetic microfiber design.
  • Lens cleaning fluid if the lenses are very dirty or greasy. Here opinions vary: some people use isopropyl alcohol, others use an exclusive lens cleaning liquid. Special "wet lens wipes" are also available.
  • Maybe vinegar (acetic acid).
  • Cotton buttons (Q-tips).

The mirror housing behind the lens mount collects dust and dirt over time. Use the lens blower to force it all. Do not try to clean the mirror or the focusing screen: these are delicate parts and very easy to scratch, dissolve or knock out.

Again, use the lens blower to get rid of dust, dirt, pieces of film and so on. Be careful, however, not to put dirt in the shutter! Finish by sweeping with cotton swabs if necessary, paying particular attention to the film guide rails above and below the shutter (a cotton swab moistened with alcohol or a lighter fluid is very effective here).

(Note: the seals between the body and the door decay over time and are most likely reduced to a slimy substance now. If you notice light leakage when using the camera, you will need to replace them, another relatively simple DIY task.)

Do not forget to clean the battery compartment. A number of electrical problems with the cameras are the result of corroded or dirty battery contacts. If there is corrosion, use vinegar with cotton swabs to get rid of it. Don't use the lens blower here: if there is dry corrosion here from the batteries, you don't want to breathe that stuff.

Extremely important: Before doing anything else, use the lens blower to blow out any loose particles from the surface of the lens. You do not want these particles around when you slide the lens with a cloth or wipe, otherwise you may scratch the surface. Then, starting with the front lens element:

  • Breathe in the lens to hydrate it, and slowly wipe with the dedicated lens cleaning cloth or wet lens wipe, making a circular motion from the inside towards the perimeter of the lens. The key is to apply as little pressure as possible.
  • If the lens is still dirty, repeat the procedure, ideally using another part of the tissue.
  • If the lens is still dirty, apply a small amount of lens cleaning liquid or alcohol to the fabric (or a cotton swab), never directly on the surface of the lens and wipe gently again.
  • This should be enough in most cases, but if the lens is very stained (for example, a lot of fingerprints), you may need to repeat the procedure. The main thing is to work in small increments and never wipe the lens with an already dirty piece of cloth.
  • Then do the same for the rear element. Be careful: stripes on a rear element degrade image quality much more than stripes on a front element.

equipment recommendation – Does a larger sensor compensate for the lack of IS and a smaller maximum aperture?

Comparing all models of competing cameras, comparing equally is the best solution. Let's start with the focal length.

  • Ricoh: 28 mm (35 mm equivalent)
  • Sony: 24 mm – 70 mm (35 mm equivalent)

This is actually a big point as these are fixed lens cameras. You have no ability to zoom from the camera with the Ricoh. You can "zoom in with your feet" or crop the image to "get closer" but not with the camera.

Next, let's look at the IS specification. Before you start, keep in mind that portable shutter speeds are usually 1 / focal length. This is the "safe" range … many shooters with stable hands can go there. So, for the Ricoh, your slowest shutter speed should be 1/28 seconds so you can hold the photos in your hand. And you're right, the larger size of the sensor will provide better image quality in low light. For me, this effectively cancels the need for IS in 99% of the situations in which you will turn.

Now let's see the apertures, f / 2.8 vs f / 1.8. This is one and a third stop difference – not huge in the grand scheme of things, especially since the Ricoh will have better high ISO performance.

to summarize: At 28 mm, the Ricoh is more functional. The larger sensor will achieve higher ISOs with the same image quality, so any benefit from IS or 1.33 stops will be minimal, if not negated.

however… the Sony zoom. Complete stop. These are not comparable options. If I had to shoot something 28mm, I would take the Ricoh. If I wanted to shoot something at 70mm … the Sony is the only option.

I urge you to seriously consider this factor. Even in the world of DSLRs and mirrorless ILCs, many people use zoom lenses on fixed focal lenses because of the tradeoffs.