canon – The EOS 700D freezes in live / video display mode, when converting JPEG or when taking RAW shots fast

see the update below.

suddenly my EOS 700D tends to freeze in live view or video recording mode. Sometimes the live view shows a still image that is several seconds old and does not refresh, sometimes there are pixel fault patterns in this still image. And sometimes the display just shows colorful gibberish. Taking photos still works properly, both in live view or non-live mode, but after 30 seconds – 1 minute in live view, the camera locks completely ( only the battery removal works). Video recording does not work, the video duration remains at 0:00.

Strangely, the display of photos and all menus works fine, so this is certainly not a display defect. I just updated the firmware to the most recent version (1.1.4 -> 1.1.5) and tried it with a different lens – to no avail. The lenses and the SD card work in my EOS 600D.

Unfortunately, my camera is out of 8 days warranty, so it gives me the impression that this error was planned (although it is probably only bad luck).

Any ideas on what could be causing this error, and maybe how to diagnose / fix it? See some attached photos.

Thanks in advance, Lukas

UPDATE: Several months have passed since the original errors occurred, so I want to give an update on how the problem evolved later, in the hope that it might help someone. 39; a.

The camera worked perfectly, at least for RAW + JPEG shots without live viewing. At one point, even the live and video display modes worked again, so I was already relieved and thought the problem was solved.

But unfortunately, two weeks ago, the problems got worse again: all of a sudden, the camera even locked out when taking regular RAW + JPEG shots in the viewfinder. . Video and live view modes have also stopped working. Reinstalling firmware or formatting / changing the SD card had no effect. I understand that the RAW only mode works as expected, even when shooting fast, while each mode involving JPEG would cause the camera to lock.

For another week, the camera has worked well in RAW only mode, so far, where even in RAW only mode, fast shots cause the camera to lock up. This makes the camera quite unusable now, which is sad because the photos are still looking good and the camera is not very old. I will have to consider a repair and expect a high cost.

UPDATE 2: I still use the camera without making any repairs. It works reliably in RAW mode, JPEG mode sometimes works, even for weeks, and then stops working for weeks. Using live view or video mode seems to kill the camera in a matter of minutes, making everything except RAW not work for weeks. But I can refrain from using JPEG and stay with RAW, instead of paying the repair costs.

The display shows a colorful gib
The display shows colorful gibberish

Display shows an old still image with pixel errors
Display shows an old still image with pixel errors

Camera completely locked (no menus / buttons / on / off switch)
Camera completely locked (no menus / buttons / on / off switch)

Will a Nikon D810 give me more detail than a D610 for enlarged macro shots?

What type of lighting do you use? I think this is where there is great potential for improvement. With textured subjects, the angle (s) of your light source relative to the optical axis of the camera can make a significant difference in contrast and the amount of detail you can see.

The fact that your subjects are usually inside aquariums presents additional challenges, but they are not insurmountable. Much of what is discussed regarding lighting in this question on photographing fish in an aquarium would also apply to your situation.

Your 12 MP APS-C D90 has the same pixel density as a 27 MP FF sensor, so you would lose some ground with the 24 MP D610, but the 6% linear difference would be negligible. You will just get more in the frame with the same goal. The D810, meanwhile, has a 36.3 MP sensor. In terms of linear resolution, this is a 23% increase over the 90D, which could be important if your lens is up to the task.

Which brings us to the choice of lens, which is the starting point for any macro photography.

We should probably stop here to define a few terms:

  • MFD – The minimum focus distance is measured from the subject to the imaging plane. In other words, the focusing distance is measured between the film or the digital sensor and the subject.
  • WD – The working distance is measured from the front of the lens to the subject. The working distance can be defined as the minimum focus distance minus the distance between the imaging plane and the front of the lens when the lens is fully deployed to the MFD. If a lens has an 8 "MFD and it is 5" from the sensor towards the front of the lens when the lens is focused on MFD, the WD would be 3 " remaining.
  • MM – The maximum magnification is the largest that the lens can project a focused image of the subject on film or the sensor. If a lens has an MM of 1.0X, it can project an image of the subject the same size as the subject in real life onto the sensor. If a lens has an MM of 0.5X, it can project a half-size image of the subject onto the sensor. This magnification is measured to the sensor.
  • RR – Reproduction rate is another way of expressing the maximum amount of magnification for a lens. This is the ratio of the size of the projected image to the size of the subject. 1: 1 is the same as 1.0X MM. 1: 2 is equivalent to 0.5X MM, 5: 1 is equivalent to 5.0X MM (very specialized lenses), etc.
  • Magnification rate – When we view images from most of our cameras, we magnify the resulting image far beyond the size of the sensor or film. If we have a full frame camera (36x24mm sensor or film) and a lens with 1.0X MM, when we view the image at the same 4×6 inch, we used an enlargement rate of About 4.25X (linear), so the subject will appear 4.25 times wider and larger on a 4 x 6 inch print than its actual size. It would appear 8.5 times its actual size for an 8 x 12 inch print, etc.

Most macro lenses are only able to reproduce 1: 1 at their minimum focus distance.¹ If you have to shoot further, you lose some of that magnification. The more you have to step back, the smaller the subject in the frame.

  • If you use the AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f / 2.8D lens, you have an 8.7 "MFD and a working distance of 3.56 inches.
  • If you're using the AF-S Micro-Nikkor 60mm f / 2.8G ED, Nikon lists the MFD at 7.2 ", which leaves a working distance of only about 2 inches when the The objective is deployed at the MFD level.

The density of the glass you are shooting through will affect this somewhat, and the density of the water on the other side of the glass will affect it even more. The refraction due to the air / glass / water interface will increase the magnification, which will also slightly reduce the MFD.

To be able to use maximum magnification with subjects more than 2 to 3 inches from the side of the aquarium, you will need a macro lens with a longer focal length than your current 60mm lens.

The following working distances are for each lens at a maximum magnification of 1.0X (1: 1):

Tamron 90mm Macro (there are several reputable versions – I use the specifications of the F017 model) has a working distance of about 5.1 "
Nikon AF-S 105mm f / 2.8G Micro has a WD of approximately 5.3 "
Sigma 150mm f / 2.8 EX DG APO HSM Macro has a WD of approximately 7.3 "
Sigma 180mm f / 2.8 EX DG OS HSM Macro has a WD of approximately 10 "

Other macro lenses in each of the focal ranges are similar. The longer the focal length, the larger the MFD at 1: 1 and, assuming that the lens lengths are relatively proportional to their focal length, the greater the working distance.

There are many other questions and answers here regarding the technique for doing macro work, but we will mention a few things that many people new to macro work can easily miss:

  • To achieve maximum magnification, the lens should be set to the minimum focus distance. Typically, one manually adjusts the focus of the lens on MFD, and then moves the camera forward or backward until that the subject is clear.
  • For maximum detail, a sturdy tripod or other solid camera mount is required. When using the MFD technique mentioned above, a macro rail between the tripod and the camera can be invaluable. Macro rails can range from $ 20-30 to several hundred dollars, but you can find great ones for less than $ 100.

¹ Some macro lenses have reproduction rates greater than 1: 1. With such lenses, the highest reproduction ratio is always at MFD, and 1: 1 would be at a longer focusing distance than MFD.

sharpness – Nikon D610 vs D810 for enlarged macro shots

I do a lot of photography that focuses on small details, usually with marine animals like coral. I need a camera that produces a photo, that even enlarged from a macro point, it retains clarity.

I realize that getting closer is often the answer, but there is a limit to how far I can get closer to the subject. One, they are often underwater, two there is glass between me and the subject.

It's for the biological details. Yes, a nice image for other apps is nice, but the most important feature is the possibility for me to enlarge the photo to the point where small details can be seen to be saved.

So here is my question: what is the difference between enlarged photos of a D610 and a D810? And will the difference be enough to affect the details. I have attached a photo of the type of clarity I need and the size I need to get these details.
Coral closeup macro shot

Does my Tamron VC lens (image stabilization) work properly for long-exposure shots taken with a tripod?

Tamron manual VC instructions below.

Note in particular:
1. Disable the VC switch when using a tripod.
2. The VC mechanism can introduce errors during long exposures.
3. When the shutter button is pressed halfway, it takes about 1 second for the VC to provide a stable picture.
4. When VC is not used, set the switch to Off.

How to use the VC mechanism
1] Turn on the VC switch.
When VC is not used, turn off the switch.
2] Press the shutter button halfway to check the VC effect.
When the shutter button is pressed halfway, it takes about 1 second for the VC to provide a stable picture.

The VC can be effective for hand-firing under the following conditions.
• Low light places
• Scenes where flash photography is prohibited
• Situations where your foot is uncertain
• Take panoramic pictures of a moving subject

The VC may not be able to give full effect in the following cases:
• When a photo is taken from a fast moving vehicle
• Shooting during the excessive movement of the camera
• Turn off the VC switch when taking pictures with the bulb setting or during long exposures. If the VC switch is ON, the VC mechanism may introduce errors.

• With the VC mechanism, sometimes the image in the viewfinder becomes scrambled just after the shutter button is pressed halfway, but it is not a malfunction.
• When VC is on, the number of recordable pictures is reduced due to the power used by the camera.
• When the VC is turned on, immediately after the shutter button is pressed halfway and about 2 seconds after the shutter release button is released, the camera will "click". This sound is the locking mechanism of the VC that turns on, not a malfunction.
• Disable the VC switch when using a tripod.
• After releasing the shutter button, the VC will continue to operate for about 2 seconds until the lock mechanism activates.

5th dnd – If I drop a bag of about 15 shots of the alchemist on a giant, it will take 15d4 of fire damage and so on.

You must make an attack for the Alchemist's Fire to take effect

In action, you can throw this balloon up to 20 feet, breaking it to impact. Make a ranged attack against a creature or object, treating the fire of the alchemist as an improvised weapon.

According to the rules, you can not just drop the balloon and let it catch on fire.

The reason for this is not clear, maybe some force is needed to shake the liquid during launch, maybe if the glass breaks too easily, the reaction will occur too slowly and will turn off. There are no rules given to ignite the fluid in addition to throwing it away.

An SM could reasonably allow it

It would be reasonable to decide that dropping the balloon from a sufficient ball could activate it, perhaps with a disadvantage of showing just how inaccurate it is to drop the ball.

Each vial costs 50gp. You can also inflict as much (if not more) damage, even without control, by shooting with a long bow from 600 feet.

The fires must be extinguished one at a time

The text says:

A creature can repair this damage by using its action to perform DC 10 dexterity control to extinguish the flames.

You can only turn off one fire per turn because you only have one action per turn. This makes hitting a monster with several lights of the alchemist a powerful tactic.

Stacks of fire of the alchemist

The text for Alchemist & # 39; s Fire states:

On one stroke, the target takes 1d4 Fire damage at the beginning of each turn.

There is no indication that he can not pile up.

However, there is an errata in the DMG (which usually does not contain rules) which states that "two or more (spells, class characteristics, exploits, racial traits, monster abilities, and magic items) when two or more features of game have the same name, only the effects of one of them, the most powerful, apply as long as the duration of the effects overlap. "therefore, the damage would not be increased, but each fire was to be extinguished individually.

5th dnd – Stack of damage. If I drop a bag of about 15 alchemist shots at a giant, it will take 15d4 of fire damage, etc.?

You must make an attack for the Alchemist's Fire to take effect

In action, you can throw this balloon up to 20 feet, breaking it to impact. Make a ranged attack against a creature or object, treating the fire of the alchemist as an improvised weapon.

According to the rules, you can not just drop the balloon and let it catch on fire.

The reason for this is not clear, maybe some force is needed to shake the liquid during launch, maybe if the glass breaks too easily, the reaction will occur too slowly and will turn off. There are no rules given to ignite the fluid in addition to throwing it away.

An SM could reasonably allow it

It would be reasonable to decide that dropping the balloon from a sufficient ball could activate it, perhaps with a disadvantage of showing just how inaccurate it is to drop the ball.

Each vial costs 50gp. You can also inflict as much (if not more) damage, even without control, by shooting with a long bow from 600 feet.

The fires must be extinguished one at a time

The text says:

A creature can repair this damage by using its action to perform DC 10 dexterity control to extinguish the flames.

You can only turn off one fire per turn because you only have one action per turn. This makes hitting a monster with several lights of the alchemist a powerful tactic.

Stacks of fire of the alchemist

The text for Alchemist & # 39; s Fire states:

On one stroke, the target takes 1d4 Fire damage at the beginning of each turn.

There is no indication that he can not pile up.

However, there is an errata in the DMG (which usually does not contain rules) which states that "two or more (spells, class characteristics, exploits, racial traits, monster abilities, and magic items) when two or more features of game have the same name, only the effects of one of them, the most powerful, apply as long as the duration of the effects overlap. "therefore, the damage would not be increased, but each fire was to be extinguished individually.

TCNHosting – VPS SSD Plans in Dallas, TX! 3 shots of different sizes !!!

TCNHosting is back with a flash sale for the community. They have already been presented here, so we hope you enjoy what they offer us today! These are three VPS plans from Dallas, TX.

As always, we would like to hear your comments, so feel free to comment in the comments section below.

You can find their ToS / Legal Docs here. They accept PayPal, credit cards, debit cards, Alipay, Bitcoin, Litecoin and Ethereum as payment methods.

Here is what they had to say:

"Here at TCNHosting we built our hosting company based on the values ​​of our customers. From the first day, our servers were secure and reliable. We know how important it is for customers to keep their sites always available.
Whether you have payment problems or require technical assistance, we are always available to help you with your queries.

You'll also be happy to know that all our servers are powered by SSD technology, which means there are no rotating drives for increased reliability and performance of your applications! We look forward to further contributing to the LowEndBox community in the future and hope that one of our LEB offers below is beneficial for your VPS hosting needs! "

Here are the offers:

SSD VPS 1 GB

  • 1 processor core
  • 1 GB of RAM
  • 20GB of SSD storage
  • 1.5TB monthly transfer
  • 100 Mbps port
  • OpenVZ / SolusVM
  • 1 x IPv4 address
  • $ 45 / year
  • [ORDER]

2GB VPS SSD

  • 2 processor cores
  • 2 GB of RAM
  • 30GB SSD storage
  • 2 TB bandwidth
  • Port 1 Gbps
  • OpenVZ / SolusVM
  • 1 x IPv4 address
  • $ 70 / year
  • [ORDER]

3GB VPS SSD

  • 2 processor cores
  • 3 GB of RAM
  • 30GB SSD storage
  • Bandwidth of 3 TB
  • Port 1 Gbps
  • OpenVZ / SolusVM
  • 1 x IPv4 address
  • $ 90 / year
  • [ORDER]

NETWORK INFOS:

Dallas, Texas, United States

IPv4 test: 192.3.237.150
Test file: http://192.3.237.150/100MB.test

VPS Nodes – Host Node Specifications:
– Intel Xeon E3 Series
– 32 GB DDR3 RAM
– 4x 1 TB Samsung Enterprise SSD
– RAID-10 hardware powered by LSI MegaRAID
– Two 1 Gbps network uplinks

Please let us know if you have questions / comments and enjoy!

canon – What type of lens would I need for outdoor shots similar to the wide shots of this music video?

I'm trying to determine the type of lens I need to get the picture in this music video. I'm trying to film a video and I have a Canon Rebel T6i with the lens of the 18-55 kit. I want to be able to get outdoor type photos similar to those in the video.

I'm really looking for stability in a gimbal, but my question is about wide-angle shots, like on the beach and in the field, where you can see the subject in the middle or on the side, but you have a wide view. Is this something that can be done with the camera and the lens of the 18-55 kit? Or do I need a different purpose for this?

canon – Type of lens I would need for these outdoor shots

I'm trying to find out what kind of lens I need to take the picture that is in this video. I'm trying to shoot a video and I have a rebel t6i canon with the 18-55 kit lens .. and I want to be able to get the outside type photos of this video https: // www .aceshowbiz.com / video / download / 00146981 /

thanks in advance, I appreciate any help.

Magic Items – Monsters resistant to clubbing and non-magical weapon shots withstand blows of a warhammer, but not fire damage?

D & D 5th:
My friend has an enchanted Silver Warhammer that deals +1 damage to fire.
We will soon fight a demon with fire resistance and blunt damage with non-magical and non-silver weapons.

My friend's war hammer deals half-bludgeoned damage and complete fire damage to the demon?