dust – Why is there not a protective glass element that is between the lens and shutter in a SLR?

Image quality and possibly expense

Introducing yet another element in front of the sensor will degrade quality of the pictures, and for various reasons.

a] being outside of protection of the shutter will mean that it is constantly in contact with the air and dust. This will mean it will require more constant cleaning than a sensor would. How often do you clean the mirror inside your SLR? Hardly ever because you know it won’t show up on photos. How often are you going to clean this extra piece of glass?

b] The placement of being between the lens and the sensor will mean that any dust on the glass would be spread over a larger area of the sensor, degrading quality. We probably all know what an example of dust on the ‘sensor’ looks like. That dust is on the protective glass right in front of the sensor, so only really covers the few pixels directly under. Being on glass in front of this would cause a larger smudge to be affected by the dust.

c] CA, diffraction, and all of those other nasty things. You have just had the light of your subject travelling through an expensive lens filled with precision glass. That nice white L lens you bought has scored amazingly well on sharpness and contrast tests. Now, however all that precision engineered light is passing at a steep angle through a cheap piece of glass placed in front of your sensor. Unless they spend a lot of money developing some very good quality coated glass, it is unlikely that it will not effect the quality of your photo. And depending on what lens you have, and the angles of incidence that the light from it is hitting this glass, will likely change how the glass effects it. To make none of this happen, you would need multi-element glass, or effectively another lens inside the camera, which would increase cost and give you even more to need to maintain and clean.

Also, in the placement where you put the glass, it might not fit with all lenses. I know some rear lens elements protrude more into the body with others, and I don’t have any measurements, but at a guess some have been designed to only just narrowly miss the mirror as it flips up. Putting this glass in the way would mean these lenses no longer fit those cameras.

To summarise, it’s not practical, and would degrade image quality. The sensor already has filtered glass on it that can be cleaned, and that is protected by a shutter that opens when it needs to to minimise contact with the air. Introducing an extra glass element removes this simplicity and makes the whole process of keeping things clean more difficult.

camera settings – Nikon D3 backbutton focus when shutter is half pressed

This really sounds more like an issue with the selected metering mode and not using exposure compensation. But there’s a half dozen ways to do most things; so…

Re-enable focus on the shutter button and set the AE/AF-L button to AE-L only.

The only back button focus function/capability you will loose is manual focus; but there is a switch on the body for that, and most lenses also have a switch and/or manual override capability.

Do as you normally do using BBF. Then when you encounter this situation point it at the grass, press the AE-L button, and use the shutter button to refocus.

shutter speed – How can I get a fixed short exposure (

Does anybody knows about way to fix or manually set the exposure of a GoPro Hero 4 Black (FW HD4.02.02.00.00). I want to set short exposure (< 2 sec), so that each shot has the same parameter.

GoPro Hero 4 Black

There are some hacks out for the Hero 3/3+, but so far I could not discover anything which works on a Hero 4 Black. I tried the autoexechack feature which is used for all these hacks, but it seems like it isn’t supported any more since the FW HD4.02. Are there any information I’m not aware of?

Regards


ps: I’m aware of that there is the long time exposure function but these question is about short exposure times for day time photos.

Controlling Shutter speed in Asus 6z

I have Asus 6z with camera2 api enabled. In the native camera app, the pro mode allows to control shutter speed from 32sec to 1/3200 sec.
I want to increase this range. Is there any app or way to increase it?

aperture – I can’t change shutter speed

This sounds like a hardware issue, it’s likely that the shutter wheel is damaged. If you have recently purchased the item, I’d recommend requesting a refund. I would not recommend attempting to repair an issue like this yourself unless you are okay with destroying the camera or really know what you’re doing.

You could try a factory reset the camera software may be corrupt. To factory reset use the following step,

Factory Reset
*Press “menu” button to the left of LCD screen. Select “shooting menu” or “Setup Menu”. Scroll down until you find “Reset Shooting Options.” Then press “OK”, highlight “yes” and press “OK” again. NOTE: This will reset all of your other personal settings. You will need to adjust other settings you have previously adjusted. *

old lenses – Were “shutter speeds” for cameras really in the hours back in the day?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shutter_speed

I can’t find any mention of it here, but once I read in a printed comic book, where there was a page of “weird facts”, that in the beginning of photography, people had to stand for literally hours, as if somebody was painting a painting of them, for the camera to take the photo.

Is this utter nonsense? If this was ever the case, why on Earth was that ever necessary? I’ve gone through my entire life assuming that this was the case, but maybe it was one of the “fake facts” which tried to trick the reader. (Yes, they had at least one such every week until they stopped having those pages.)

nikon – how do i fix the “error press shutter release button again”

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How much does it cost to replace a DSLR shutter?

This is the biggest problem of the fast shutter speed cameras
Canon says the shutter lasts up till 100K, but the good news is you might be lucky enough to use your shutter till 200K or even 400K, but in any case, you can replace it for roughly 300 USD if it fails early

However, note that you should never replace your shutter if the repair price exceeds 30% the price of the whole camera, so in order to get a better solution, sell it when it reaches 70K — and dont forget to honestly inform the buyer about the shutter count — and get yourself newer model so you will always be updated by the latest models without involving yourself in the hassle of repairs. Hopefully, you will be changing the camera body without the lenses and don’t need to change the lenses as long as you protect them well by UV filters and seal them well in your antishock camera bag.

shutter – What DIY methods exist to trigger a Lumix G3 without touching the camera?

I have a Panasconic Lumix DMC-G3 with a 175 mm lens which I need to trigger without touching the camera to reduce camera shake1.

I know of the following ways to take a photo without touching the camera, however at the moment I cannot use any of those:

  1. Cable release: A device that you plug into your camera with a button that releases the camera shutter.
    • I don’t own a cable release for this camera.
  2. Intervalometer: A cable releases with the possibility to set up timers, e.g. for timelapses.
    • I don’t own an intervalometer for this camera.
  3. Remote Release: Similar to cable releases, but they are not plugged into the camera and work via infrared.
    • I don’t own a remote release for this camera.
  4. Smartphone App: Many (modern) cameras have built-in WiFi or Bluetooth which allows you to take a photo and sometimes even change settings using a smartphone app.
    • This camera has no WiFi or Bluetooth
  5. PC software: Some cameras can be tethered to a PC (usually using a cable) and can be controlled and fired with some software.
  6. Camera self-timer: Most cameras have a self-timer (e.g. 2 or 10 seconds).
    • I experienced that this can still cause camera shake when using a telephoto lens, about 3/4 of the images were shaky taken this way1.

Are there any DIY methods than those described above to take a photo without touching the camera?


1: My other question contains more information on the problem at hand: I’m trying to photograph comet C/2020 F3 (Neowise) by stacking images, but the results are too shaky.

diy – How can you trigger the shutter of a camera without physically touching it?

I know of the following ways to take a photo without touching the camera:

Intervalometer/Cable release
This is a device that you plug into your camera. It usually has a button that, if pressed, relases the camera’s shutter. Many cable releases also feature the possibility to set up timers, e.g. for timelapses.

Remote Release
They are similar to cable releases, but usually only have a shutter release. They are not plugged into the camera, but work using Infrared.

Smartphone App
Many (modern) cameras have built-in WiFi or Bluetooth which allows you to take a photo and sometimes even change settings using a smartphone app.

PC software
Some cameras can be connected to a PC (usually using a cable) and be controlled with some software.

(Camera self-timer)
Most cameras have a photo mode where you can set up a self-timer (e.g. 2 or 10 seconds). However, I experienced that this can still cause camera shake when using telephoto lenses.


Are there any methods than those described here to take a photo without touching the camera (It can be the case, for example, that you neither have a cable or remote release that is compatible with the camera or that the camera has no wifi or bluetooth or that it is not recognized by PC software)?

I would, if possible, prefer DIY solutions that you can easily and cheaply recreate at home without having to purchase additional items, but I am also open to other solutions to make the question useful for other users. The solutions should be applicable for DSLRs and DSLMs.


In my case, I need to release the shutter of a Panasonic Lumix DMC-G3. The camera does not have wifi and is not compatible with any PC control software that I found.

I tried to shoot comet C/2020 F3 (“Neowise”) with a 175mm lens (which is 350mm FF equivalent), so using a 2 seconds timer still could not prevent shake on most of the images that I wanted to stack (refer to this question for more detail).