sony a7ii vs canon t7i

I am torn between a new full format A7ii or a Canon T7i. I am currently shooting on a Canon Digital Rebel and I have a glass kit that I can use if I buy the T7i. I photograph many landscapes, wild animals, panoramic photos. I have heard that full frame is better for shooting the Milky Way than I would like to try.

I can get a Sony A7ii for $ 935 with the 28-70mm lens kit
I can get the T7i without lens for $ 550

What would you like to buy

battery – Sony NP-FH40 does not charge well

The answer is probably very simple: the battery is dead.

Lithium-ion batteries lose a certain charge when stored. The self-discharge rate generally reported by manufacturers is around 1.5-2% per month.

If this period is prolonged, they can discharge deeply, which can damage the cells of the battery.

As a result, they lose a lot of capacity or can even become so damaged that they no longer hold an actual charge.

Please also note that the batteries age and this effect also adds to a decrease in capacity.

The good news is that they have become cheaper and that a new one will cost you around $ 15.

Sony A6000 with Sony E 18-200 lens: blurry pictures on the left, especially when zooming – damage to the lens?

My photos, taken with a Sony A6000 with a Sony E 18–200 mm lens, are blurred on the left in moderate zoom and blurred everywhere off-center in severe zoom. This effect is present with image stabilization on or off and with different aperture sizes.

This photo was taken at 43mm, F / 8. Cropping on the far left is blurry:

crop from the far left of the image

But cropping to the far right is sharp:

crop to the far right of the image

Full photo here.

Photo with 200 mm, F / 13, the cropping in the center is sharp:

central crop image

Cropping to the far left is not sharp:

left crop image

Cropping to the far right is blurry:

right crop image

Do these photos indicate a lens problem, or I expect too much from my equipment, or could there be another problem?

Related: Sony SEL 18-200mm very blurry on the right of the photo, Sony A6000 blur in peripherals despite clear center – is it a mirrorless thing?

Which combo will be the best? Choice of lens (Sony E mount)

I have an a7 III and a Tamron 28-75 2.8. I take photos (70% of my work) and videos (25%). Now I plan to buy the lenses of choice. What better decision will be: Sony Zeiss 50 1.4 ZA or prime combo Sigma 35mm Art 1.4 (for Sony) + 85mm 1.8 FE.
I also plan to buy Tamron 17-28mm in the future, as I sometimes like to shoot wide.
For me, these 2 variants have the same price (Sony Zeiss 50 mm ZA second hand = Sigma 35 mm 1.4 second hand + 85 mm FE 1.8 new).
What do you think – which option will be the best?
thank you so much

Need help removing mushrooms from Sony 55-210mm lenses (SEL55210)

A simple lens consisting of a glass element can be used for pictorial photography. However, all lenses are degraded due to focusing defects called aberrations. Lens makers have struggled with the design of the camera from the start. They are unable to eliminate the aberrations; However, intelligent designs almost make them disappear. Since there are seven main types of aberrations, it takes a multi-element to mitigate.

A modern camera lens consists of positive (convex) and negative (concave) lenses sandwiched. Some are made from hard, dense glass; others are made with lighter density glass. Some elements are spaced from the air; some are cemented together. The cement should be transparent, not yellowing and should have an appropriate refractive index. For most of the history of the photo, the glue was made from the sap of the Canadian balsa tree. Today's lenses are cemented with the help of an artificial resin. The older cement, being organic, acts as a culture medium which can support fungi and mildew. To review infected cemented lenses, you will need to soak them in an appropriate solvent. After separation, you will need to recement using an adhesive with the correct refractive index.

Such a task is daunting and probably fruitless unless the craftsman has an optical bench and special skills.

lens – Sony a7 III vs a7R III + Lenses

I currently own the A7 III, the Tamron 28-75 2.8 and the Sony 85 1.8 which is the focus of your question.

Camera

The decision between the a7 model and the a7r model is that it must first take:
The two cameras share many features, but there is more difference than the simple resolution.

Benefits of the A7 III

  • Slightly better performance in low light due to larger pixels
  • Better AF point coverage and generally slightly more modern AF system
  • Best suited for video as it doesn't use pixel binning and uses full format

** Benefits of the a7r III
– Better resolution (a plus for product photos) and optional pixel shift
– Better resolution of the viewfinder and rear monitor (this is really noticeable, you can hardly judge the sharpness on the A7 III)
– You can use the APS-C mode and always have sufficient resolution to use the shooting.

So you have traits that speak for each model. The A7R seems to be the best choice if you tend to shoot still, while the A7 is clearly the best choice for video.

glasses

The Sony 24-105mm f / 4 is a magnificent lens, but as you have already discovered, the limitation lies in the aperture. If you plan on getting the 85mm and the 28-75mm, that doesn't add much to the mix.

Sony 85mm

This lens is just great – especially for the price. It is razor sharp, light, ok bokeh, super fast AF, good build quality. You can't go wrong with this one.

Tamron 28-75mm

Another very good goal. The cheap price is ridiculous for what you get: Very good sharpness across the range, fast AF, ok for video, light, good build quality. The downsides are the limit at 28 instead of 24mm on the short end and the poor bokeh, when you shoot wide open. Always the best lens in this range for the price. And the closest focusing distance to this lens is so small that you can literally fall on your subject. Which is really cool.

Note: There is a new Sigma which is also supposed to be very good. But as with all Sigmas – it will be heavy.

Personal thought

I would suggest buying the Tamron and the Sony 85mm. If you can only afford one goal, choose the Tamron first. 75mm at 2.8 is also a decent focal length for portraits. The 85mm will provide better bokeh and better sharpness, but is less flexible.

Then, as a secondary step, I would assess what you missed the most in your first shots, and then invest in a larger lens or a 70-200 2.8 (Tamron plans a 75-180 mm 2.8 in spring 2020) to expand your options.

Raw therapist lens / geometry correction Sony A6100

I recently bought my first "real" camera, a Sony Alpha 6100 (Sony ILCE-6100).
I choose that both, .jpg and .arw must be kept.
When I compare the .jpg and the .arw imagine that the geometry is a little different.
Straight lines in the .jpg the file looks slightly curved in the .arw file.
Therefore, I have tried to process some of the raw images using RawTherapee 5.8 to resolve this issue, but I have failed.

When i click on Transform tool and go to Lens / Geometry I tried to fix it using the Profiled Lens Correction. By default, Automatic (Lensfun) is selected which does not really help.
I tried to change it to Manually but I can't find the Sony ILCE-6100 camera, nor the lens in the OSS 3.5-5.6 / 16-50 kit that I use. There is also the option to import an LCP file but I couldn't find it and I have no idea what it is and where I can find it.

What is the best way to correct geometry using RawTherapee?

(I hope I have understood the English terminology well, I use RawTherapee with a different language and so I don't know what it is called exactly in English. Let me know if you're having trouble follow my descriptions.)

hdr – Remote control for Sony NEX 5 with images in square brackets

The Sony RMTDSLR2 remote control indicates in the description (mine in bold):

features

Video recording start / stop.

Remote trigger control.

Single hit, To burst, 2 seconds of self-timer.

Slideshow playback control.

In compatible models, it lists the NEX 5T:

Compatible models

ILCA-99M2; ILCA-77M2; ILCA-77M2M; ILCA-77M2Q; SLT-A99;

SLT-A99V; ILCE-7RM3; ILCE-9; ILCE-6500; ILCE-6300; ILCE-6300L;

ILCE-7SM2; ILCE-7RM2; ILCE-7M2; ILCE-7M2K; ILCE-7S; ILCE-6000;

ILCE-6000L; ILCE-6000Y; ILCE-7; ILCE-7K; ILCE-7R; NEX-5T;

NEX-5TL; NEX-5R; NEX-6.

Limited functionality of the remote control with the following models:

NEX-5N; NEX-5NK; NEX-7; NEX-7K.

From the description of your problem, it seems that this remote control does what you want.
If it works, please let us know by accepting this response.

sony – How does the iPhone make long time slow motion videos?

I recently started researching slow motion video recording. I am considering buying Sony RX100 VII or Sony RX 10 IV.

What I have found is that by including the two cameras above, even many high specification cameras can only record a few seconds (2 to 7 seconds) of HD in 240 frames per second.

And I understand the theory behind the size of the buffer, the number of images taken in high quality, processing and saving the video to be played back at 30 fps requires a buffer size and processing power.

But my iPhone XR can record Slo-Mo videos at 1080p 240fps as long as I want. I tried for at least 30 seconds and it kept recording, even after 30 seconds I stopped, otherwise it would have continued.

So how does the iPhone work? And then is it worth it to buy these high end cameras if all I'm interested in is slow motion video.

Nikon D7500 vs Sony A7II

I want to buy a camara for less than 1000 €, my favorite is the Nikon D7500 and Sony A7II, which camera is better for portrair and astrophotography?
If you know better cameras for less than 1000 € (or a little more) tell me, thank you