What mirrorless camera should i buy panasonic gx9 vs sony alpha 6400

Ok, so you want to start photographing. There are several options, ranging from camera phones to compact cameras, cropping and full frame DSLR / mirrorless cameras.

I would recommend you buy some material (1) not too expensive, but (2) enough to interest you in photography. This reduces the options a bit.

For example, I bought in 2009 or 2010 a Canon compact camera with image stabilization, 3x zoom and optical viewfinder (3x zoom separated in the viewfinder). He was producing shitty pictures unless he photographed in direct sunlight and I found him uninteresting, so I was never really interested in photography after buying this camera.

In 2012 or 2013, I found that a Canon 12x zoom camera with image stabilization was sold at a very good price. It did not have an optical viewfinder, but the zoom range was larger. It produced crappy pictures unless you shoot in direct sunlight and without a viewfinder, the LCD was totally useless in the sun, so you can not use it anywhere: sunlight => bad LCD screen, no of sunlight => opening too small. I have never really been interested in photography after buying this camera.

I have also owned several camera phones. I was never really interested in photography because of my camera phone.

In January of February 2019, things began to roll. I bought a Canon 2000D with a stabilized lens zoom lens with 18-55mm image. Now, for the first time in my history, the ergonomics, the quality of the viewfinder, the quality of the image, etc., were so interesting that I really got into photography. I quickly bought a 55-250 mm telezoom, a cheap tripod and a wide-angle zoom of 10-18 mm.

So, you probably think that I like my tripod equipment 2000D + 10-18mm + 18-55mm + 55-250mm + cheap? Well no. I do not use any equipment of this type today because I was so interested in photography that I quickly got out of my gear. My current kit is the EOS RP + 17-40L + 24-105L + 100-400L + 40 / 2.8 + 50 / 1.8 + 85 / 1.8 + Tripod Manfrotto + two speedlites + some light modifiers.

There is a hot spot in the equipment. This is not the $ 4,000 kit from Hueco, because buying this kit before you're interested in photography is not sensible, as Hueco had already noted by suggesting instead to find a mentor. (But you probably will not find a mentor easily.)

This is also not the viewfinder of Alan Marcus. When I was doing point-and-shoot, I never really used it, because of poor ergonomics, poor image quality, shutter lag time, zoom so bad that a SLR Digital without a mirror with a premium and a post-processing cropping is sharper, and a lot of other disadvantages.

Let's see how the DSLR / Mirrorless mirror + standard zoom (eg 18-55mm) + telezoom (eg 55-250mm) culture sensor addresses the situations you may encounter:

  • Street photography: well lit, a standard zoom is correct. This is not so big that it would immediately scare all the people on the street (although people will probably recognize it as a camera above the ordinary). In case of low light or when you want to isolate the subject with a shallow depth of field, the report is not good. I would say that you can do street photography with a standard zoom.
  • Landscape photography: The wide-angle end of a standard zoom can be used for this purpose. It is not wide enough for all purposes, and it is not good in low light, but may be otherwise acceptable. Add a cheap tripod and you are ready to learn landscape photography.
  • Bird photography: a telezoom crop can be used to do this. I've taken many acceptable bird pictures with a cropping telezoom. The quality of the image is not very good, but it is acceptable enough for you to start. You will soon find that the burst rate and / or image quality of cameras and crop objectives will one day be limited.
  • Flower photography: a standard zoom with crop is probably about 25 cm away from focus. This is good enough for flower photography, and at such close distances you will get a shallow depth of field.

How much money do you need then? I would say that $ 1000 will help you get started. All the equipment you can buy with the $ 1000 will become obsolete in one of two ways:

  1. You are really interested in photography and the growth of your equipment. You prefer better full frame equipment.
  2. You are not really in the photograph and the equipment will become unused so

Google play and gaming services for Sony Experia T3

I lost my phone and all Google apps were lost. Now I want to reinstall Google Play and reading services. Kindly help

Problem with Sony A7R III Noise reduction in long exposure

I just took a few long exposure photos (exposure between 5 and 8 minutes) with long exposure noise reduction enabled, and I notice that there are still hot pixels.

This is the second time that I have A7RIII and this has not happened with each other. Is it a bad copy or did I get lucky with the first one?

Plus, I'm not sure that matters, but the lens cap was not activated when the camera took the second exposure to reduce the noise.

Using the dark frame subtraction would be a problem for me because I keep the filter adapter all the time and I would not want to remove it at any time.

-: hb

BlackHatKings: Proxies and VPN Section
Posted by: ThomasLound
Post time: July 1st, 2019 at 06:23.

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ThomasLound
Reviewed by ThomasLound sure
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Evaluation: 5

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BlackHatKings: Proxy Lists
Posted by: ThomasLound
Post time: June 28, 2019 at 19:31.

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ThomasLound
Reviewed by ThomasLound sure
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i -: 2019 db
i -: 2019 dbhttps: //i110.fastpic*****big/2019/0626/87/6d3b19b326c1b317b65ea3f6c1cd1487.jpg i -: i -: i -: 2. 151. 151 109. 109. o 109. 109. 109.,: -. 2019 i hd ,, International 4 (20), -: (4), (18),. 2019 13. 2019: 1992; :, William A. Schabas, Genocide in International Law. The crime : .-: . : i 2012 ,: 2019 3 ::,: Home; 7: – :, 3. 3 2019 i. : 4. 2019 .:
Evaluation: 5

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astrophotography – Sony e-mount choice of photo lenses

You probably do not want to use noise reduction in astrophotography because algorithms can think of stars as noise!

Generally, when you choose a lens for astrophotography, you want a short focal length and a large aperture simultaneously. You can calculate an "astrophotography index" for lenses, and this index should be as low as possible. The index is:

I = f * N2

where f is the focal length and N is the opening number. Example: The index is 141.12 for Zeiss and 80 for Tokina. So, you should get the Tokina because it captures 76.5% more light, so you can use 0.57 times the ISO you use for Zeiss. Lower ISO, less noise.

BTW, according to this index, the Samyang 14mm f / 2.8 is worse than Tokina 20mm f / 2.0.

More information: https://www.lonelyspeck.com/lenses-for-milky-way-photography/ – note however that their "ranking" (which should be high, not low) is calculated at the # 39, using a different formula so that numeric values ​​are not comparable.

Justification of the index formula: opening opening in units of length squared (proportional to2/ NOT2) and the field of view in units of angle squared (proportional to 1 / f2) indicates how much you can collect light. However, the maximum exposure time is proportional to 1 / f because you do not want star trails; the light collection capacity is therefore proportional to 1 / (f * N2), you will want as high as possible 1 / (f * N2) or in other words as low as possible f * N2.

ipod touch – Itouch on a sony docking station

I did not find an answer to my question about not being able to play songs through my dock. My solution, although hacky, was to place an object behind my itouch while it was mounted on the Sony Dream Station dock, so that the pins could come into contact. Once I did that, I was able to control my iTouch via the controls of my Sony Dream Station. I guess the pins loosen inside the iTouch over time and prevent the control pins from coming into contact with the Sony home stations. This brings us back to the old days of Nintendo :). I hope this will help anyone who still deals with this problem.

Why on a Sony SLT-A65V with dynamic range optimization, I get three almost duplicate photos. Now what?

I turned on DRO and this gives me 3 slightly different pictures of the same thing.

Now what?

  1. Decide manually which is the best?
  2. Recombine them in one single best photo? How?
  3. Something else

Final goal

To have 1 copy of each image that benefits from DRO.