Computer won’t boot if I connect an externally powered USB HUB

As the title suggests, today I ran into a rather unusual problem, that is, if I connect an externally powered USB HUB to my PC it refuses to boot.

Has anything like this ever happened to you?
Are there any settings in the BIOS that need to be changed to correct this?

Thank you very much for helping!

Is it possible to control the individual pins on a usb port? Ubuntu/Windows

It’s for recreational purposes. I’d like to communicate between Windows and Ubuntu machines, using my own data to binary protocols utilizing usb to usb connection between an Ubuntu 20.04 headless and my Windows 10 desktop. I intend to use high-level where possible. I suppose it’s similar to creating a driver?

Idea was sparked after wanting to power on my desktop from my server, so ideally I’d also be able to use the power pins for recreating the boot signal. I am not sure if usb <-> usb connection needs power pins, though it doesn’t appear to be so judging from how usb cables are wired.

File transfere to USB drive

Is it possible to retrive the file names of files transferred from a PC to a USB drive. I can only find the size of the files but not the names?

windows – how to transfer data from a desktop pc to an usb flash drive?

on a windows 10(home basic edition) desktop pc, how do i-can i-transfer data(firefox browsing history) to an usb flash drive? i see a lot of how-to’s on the web, but they don’t tell me exactly on how to do it, lacks the right details on them or clashy/inconsistent on what they are describing/explaining clearly in their instructions on how to do it/that! thanks! bradley wilson-e-mail:

usb – What is the fastest external storage supported on Intel 2020 27″ iMac?

There are three things which effect compatibility and performance when connecting external storage:

  1. The physical connector and cable. The 2020 iMac has four USB Type A (USB-A) and two USB Type C (USB-C) connectors.

  2. The data transfer protocol – USB 1, USB 2, USB 3 (and later variants 3.1 and 3.2) and Thunderbolt. There is also USB 4, but this is not relevant to 2020 iMac. The 202O iMac supports:

  • USB-A ports: USB 3.0 (maximum speed 5 Gbits/s) and slower USB 2 and
    USB 1.
  • USB-C ports: Thunderbolt 3 (maximum speed 40 Gbits/s), USB 3.1
    gen2 (10 Gbits/s), and slower USB 3.1 speeds.
  1. The drive inside the external device/enclosure. Common types are are SATA (maximum speed 6 Gbits/s) or NVMe (faster). HDD are usually SATA, whilst SSDs might be SATA or NVMe.

The USB 3.1 gen1 and 3.2 gen1 standards are similar to USB 3.0 and storage devices specifying these are generally compatible with USB 3.0 via the USB-A ports.

Further, the USB 3.2 gen2 is very close to USB 3.1 gen2. So storage devices specifying USB 3.2 gen2 should be compatible with the USB 3.1 gen2 protocol delivered by the USB-C ports.

As well as the the iMac ports supporting or being compatible with multiple data protocols, most USB storage devices support multiple data protocols and (in many cases) both USB-A and USB-C cables and computer ports.

For an overview of USB standards read Wikipedia.

But Thunderbolt 3 storage devices can only be connected to the USB-C ports and must use Thunderbolt 3 cables. Older Thunderbolt 1 and 2 devices can only be connected using cables which convert to Thunderbolt 3 – the iMac does not directly support Thunderbolt 1 and 2.

Note that physical USB-C ports which support Thunderbolt 3 have a thunderbolt like symbol next to them. For more detail read Wikipedia.

To further confuse matters (but out of scope for this question) USB-C ports also support connecting monitors using, for examples, Display Port and HDMI standards.

What should you be looking for:

For maximum speed (and cost) you should be looking for a Thunderbolt 3 SSD storage device. These can have performance similar to the internal SSD (~2000 MByte/s). Example: Samsung X5.

For a more modest cost, there are SSDs which use USB 3.1 Gen 2 (or 3.2 Gen 2) and via the USB-C ports on the iMac will deliver ~1000 Mbyte/s. Example: Sumsung T7.

And for a slightly more modest cost there are SSDs which use USB 3.1 Gen 2 (or 3.2 Gen 2), but internally use SATA SSDs and deliver only ~500 Mbyte/s. Example: Samsung T5. These devices can connect to either USB-C or USB-A ports using USB 3.0, 3.1 Gen1/2 or 3.2 Gen1/2 – the differences in speed are minor as the SATA SSD becomes the bottleneck.

Unless you have a professional need for highest speed, devices like the Samsung T7 (or T5) provide fast secondary storage.

I have just used Samsung as examples. There are other equally good (and some not quite so good) brands.

boot – bootable usb for windows

hello everyone in this forum.
ok, here we go first with what is the issue.
so i was going to install linux mint on my laptop, was of the idea that it would work for what i need my laptop for,only it didn’t as i’m not very smart when it comes to linux in the first place. so i was trying to create a bootable usb on that laptop for windows10 again only i did something wrong and now linux is of my laptop also, so there’s no OS on it anymore. The only thing i have left is a paspberry pi4. now my question is, the raspberry pi has Kali linux on it, can i create a bootable usb for windows with this small pc or am i stuck? If it would be possible, please if you are willing to help me the advice you are willing to give will be needed to be step by step as i’m a noob.

adb – PIN locked Pixel with broken screen and USB debugging OFF, OTG keyboard doesn’t unlock it

I got a Google Pixel 1 with a smashed dead black screen locked by a known PIN that I would like to recover some photos from. Nothing vital but now it has become a personal crusade to do it!

The good news are:

  • it shows as MTP device on win/linux
  • vibrates if I try to unlock it via fingerprint (as it requires PIN, so no can do)
  • if I connect a keyboard/mouse via OTG they do light up
  • in recovery mode it shows in ADB and I’m even able to put it into sideload mode

The bad news:

  • can’t see sh1t (BTW Pixel 1 doesn’t support USB-C -> HDMI)
  • USB debugging is OFF
  • if I enter my PIN via OTG+keyboard then plug it back to the PC, it stills shows as MTP and no files can be browsed (I would assumes it remains locked)

I’m pretty close to burn another 20 bucks and get a second spare screen but before I do that, any ideas?
From what I read, my greatest achievement so far which was to get it in sideload blindly is useless and every 3rd party tool seems to require USB debugging ON.


Wifi usb adaptors issue

hello guys i am using kali linux on my pc so as connect my wifi usb adaptor to the pc it is showing nothing and I don’t not how to enable wifi adaptor in kali Linux and how to install it . I want your help guys.
Anybody. And I’m using virtual machine this my one and only one os

How to prevent Windows 10 and/or my computer from going completely crippled while utilizing file copying over USB?

I have a monster PC running Windows 10. There are zero known hardware issues, and it’s managed by me, a poweruser. There are no weird things slowing it down. It runs at expected speed normally.

It is only when I copy files via USB to a USB 3 stick (with a USB 3 socket) that it becomes completely crippled. And I really mean crippled. I don’t mean slight slow-downs, but waiting for a full minute to open a new browser tab, Task Manager not opening upon request, and everything just becoming insanely unresponsive and “locked up” I/O-wise. Any currently running video stream (which uses the network cable) continues to work, but anything which in any way uses I/O just becomes like a pre-286 PC from the 1980s.

This doesn’t always happen when copying files over USB. It seems to happen when there’s a lot of big files to sync, or many new ones. But when I do get Task Manager open, it doesn’t necessarily seem to be actually using much I/O. It seems to vary.

This happens regardless of whether I use ROBOCOPY, PHP CLI’s copy() function, or File Explorer’s file transfer mechanism. It appears to have nothing to do with which method/tool/software I use to actually copy the files. It appears as if the USB mechanism on the motherboard “clogs up” everything, even things unrelated to USB. My system disk is a fast SSD and it’s most certainly not connected via USB.

This is absolutely maddening and just seems to make no sense. Currently, ROBOCOPY has been stuck for like an hour with one single 550 MB large file, slooowly adding to the percentage (currently 58% finished). The USB stick is not damaged. None of my USB storage devices are.

I truly don’t understand what could be causing this. As soon as it’s done, the machine is going to go back to being fast again. I know it because it’s been like this so many times. I doubt telling Windows to not use the full speed of USB 3 will do anything since Task Manager doesn’t say that it’s “maxing” the transfer currently. Plus this is probably not even possible anyway.

I’ve had so many problems similar to this with specifically USB over the years. I’ve never experienced a technology that’s so fragile and unreliable and problem-causing as USB. I hate USB. Why are “large” USB file transfers causing my “internal tubes” to get helplessly clogged like this? And why does it affect non-USB parts of my system?

Can I use a USB stick to store cache?

Can I use a USB stick to store cache? – Ask Different

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