Whenever i change WiFi network, GPS just keeps turning on. I turned off GPS and change system settings permissions for every app, but it still keeps happening. Recent location requests shows that no apps have used that permission. Turning off google’s find my phone also doesn’t help. What is going on?
Device: Samsung Galaxy s10
I use my Android for everything driving (Waze, music, etc) and between that and my OEM MMI screen, I’ve got enough screens in my face while driving. I purchased a backup camera that connects via Wifi to my Android (Moto Z3, Android 9.0), but it only works if I turn off mobile data. Once mobile data is turned on, the camera stops working. I would like to leave the camera app receiving its signal all the time so that there’s no lag time between switching to the app and seeing the feed, and so that I can record on it continuously as a rear dash-cam.
It seems that this question has been asked and I can find no answer for how to make it work. I am flabbergasted that we don’t have the capability for this and other functionality (like, using a company intranet over a local wifi connection while maintaining internet access?). Anyway, if I cannot get the “use wifi for this app, cellular data for everything else” solution I want, I was considering using an older phone (Moto Z2 Android 8) as the dedicated wifi receiver for the camera. I’d love to have that dedicated phone stashed in a glove box or under the seat, and somehow just mirror or feed its camera displat to my dash-mounted Z3. Is there a way to do this with USB(C)<->USB(C) so that I don’t have to give up the Bluetooth connection? Obviously, I wouldn’t be able to connect the phones to each other via Wifi because the one phone would already be using its Wifi to talk to the camera.
Any other suggestions for how to keep my backup cam rolling with quick access to the feed from my dash-mounted, cellular data using z3 would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
I have been having an issue I can’t seem to fix. The WIFI on my 2017 Macbook Pro keeps cutting out, about once every 10-20 minutes. When this happens I lose internet connection and when I click on the wifi icon in the menu bar it shows that my wifi is on and connected to my network, but my network, as well as all other available wifi networks, are greyed out and I am unable to click anything. Turning the wifi off and back on temporarily fixes the problem.
Here is a list of things I have tried so far:
Turn wifi on/off
Remove network and reconnect
Remove wifi service and reestablish
Factory restore of router
New SSID, new channels, new wifi password
Reset the PRAM & SMC
Updated the Mac OS to Big Sur (from Catalina)
Ran Wireless Diagnostics
Running Wireless Diagnostics initially finds nothing when the internet is working, but then when this happened it does detect a “Dropped Wi-Fi Connection”, stating that:
Your Mac experienced an unexpected Wi-Fi connection drop, which can be
caused by a combination of environment, configuration, and software
Provide the diagnostics report created in /var/tmp to an AppleCare
customer support representative for further analysis.
I looked into the logs, but am not really sure what I am looking at. And to make matters worse the applecare on this machine just expired.
Also worth noting that the network has been, and continues to work fine for all other devices (another macbook pro, two iphones, smart tv, etc.) and nothing major changed with the network before this occurred.
Any tips on what to try next?
When traveling, we usually connect our laptop to our smartphone’s wifi hotspot. In other words, the smartphone’s wifi subscription, on its SIM card, is projected for the laptop to use/piggyback.
Is it possible instead to somehow make the laptop access the smartphone’s SIM card directly instead? In the same way that the laptop has an SD card slot, is there such a thing as a SIM card slot or adaptor for laptops? The idea is to not have to require two hardware devices running at the same time (smartphone + laptop) just to have mobile internet when travelling. We just want to need the laptop in order to access the internet, not both
I have a wifi AP and a network camera some distance away. The network camera has 2 antennas which can be pointed in different directions. The AP has no visible (movable) antennas. Relative to the line defined by the AP and the camera, how should the antennas be pointed? In other words, should I point an antenna directly toward the AP, or perpendicular to that, or something else?
I’ve been trying to troubleshoot a wifi issue (with a specific network) and have wifi verbose logging on, but I can’t find any documentation on what any of the fields in the network selection menu are.
The network in in question has the full info of:
Connected ( UN UN UN ) f=2462 00:00:b1:6b:00:b5 standard=4 rssi=-75 score=59 tx=23.3,27.9,1.0 rx=20.9 4G STAs:8((2)
I understand rssi and STAs (although, i have no idea for the second number for STAs) and f fits the channel frequency, but the rest (UN, tx/rx, standard, score, and 4G) have me stumped.
Does anyone have any idea for these or a pointer to the relevant documentation?
Sony cameras since ~2013 have a WiFi API. This is utilized by the official Imaging Edge Mobile app, but also open to third-party developers.
I own a QX1 and want to livestream to twitch from this.
Most search results use a computer and a HDMI capture card.
Are there any apps available which can connect to the camera through the WiFi API and then directly stream to twitch?
What (somewhat) works is just opening the Imaging Edge Mobile app, then using an app that can capture the screen like Streamlabs, but that sucks because I need to keep the screen on all the time, and the controls on the right side of the app are always visible.
I am a student and I join to some classes via
Zoom these days. Most of my teachers use free accounts hence it disconnects us every 40 minutes. The problem is when it happens my Wi-Fi connection also disconnects and asks for the password to re-connect. Can someone explain what causes this to happen and how to avoid it?
P.S.: I use my personal laptop which runs Windows 10.
I would like to buy a new DSLR camera but I’m concerned about security. I was wondering if there’s a camera on the market that doesn’t have built-in wireless connectivity to it or has an option to physically disable it.